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Re: (ET) Source for small Ni-cads and NiMHs?
A lot of towns have recycle dumps. Some towns you need a town window
sticker to get in, some are the layback type and don't. I myself can go
to 2 towns, one being my own, but only need the closest one (my own)
Some home Depots and Lowe's stores have a 'battery recycle' drop box
you can fish in there, I have. I wouldn't ask the manager as these shirt
n tie guys have no clue as to what we are doin with em, perhaps makin
bombs, you always get a no' from hi level people anyway. Get 3 or 4 of
em when you go that look something like yours.
As to buying the tabbed type sub C's etc you could try Digitron or
other electronic places especially surplus - although they would likely
be expensive including ship. Never bought a new tabbed type. No need to.
Good free junk is everywhere.
There seem to be 3 size variants. however, voltage is the same. Never
mix sizes in the same pack. Also, replace any insulation you find on em
(cardboard tubes washers etc) or the thing can short with noise and fire
some later day unbekownst. Or imediate when you put it together and get a
+ and - together from even one cell it's likely to feel hot, could burn
you. If charged, big hot sparks so wear eye protection if you do this.
Another thing - to use a dead cell you got to be able to charge it to
make sure it's good. your charger won't properly handle anything it ain't
built for so you need something to do that. I have a dozen ways to do
that here in this shop but you don't. Suggesting a small DC wall wart
anything around 3V with a flashlight bulb in series as a current limiter.
Keep a meter on it observe voltage it's charged at about 1.30 measured
with the charger unplugged. Will take a bit of time and I have a safey
rule in this shop that I never leave unknown batteries on chrge overnite.
A single sub C packs a wallop of a spark that will start a fire, burn up
your battery charger clipleads or even more if shorted by a mouse
wiggling by it or something.
To start - perhaps you could take apart several of your dead packs til
you find one that has the same size. Then put together and attempt to
charge the pack with it's own charger so at least some of the cells will
be up. Then take apart again and measure see what didn't charge. Use a
flashlight bulb to see if it lights as cells are known to be able to come
up in voltage, but not supply any current. A 6V auto taillight bulb is a
good current tester for a single cell a good fully charged one will light
it real dim
Be careful. High current low voltage won't give you a shock but it is a
prime fire hazard - and destroyer of test meters and test clips and leads
if they are used improperly.
On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 15:08:08 -0400 reo43 aol com writes:
> And if one does not have a local recycle dump - Are these individual
> nicad cells available anywhere else?
> I have countless rechargeable tools lying around because the
> batteries won't recharge anymore. If I could get the cells for a
> reasonable price and connect them inside the old cartridge I could
> use these tools again.
> Or are there just too many variations in sizes to make it possible
> to market these?
> Erv Troyer
> Lagrange, IN
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David C Robie <mycroftxx1 juno com>
> Subject: Re: (ET) Source for small Ni-cads and NiMHs?
> As to older portable tool powerpacks. It may be that only one
> battery in
> the pack is causing the 'weak pack' symptom. Take the pack apart,
> the cells individually. Solder in a new one in place of the bad
> Older nicads tend to short through. Have done this many times, and
> the charger's still good, you're in businss. Source of those
> nicads? Why, the town's battery recycle dump behind the town barn.
> There's plenty of old power tool packs in there and it don't even
> have to
> be the same brand. When you are there. pick up several old packs as
> internally, the cells are not all of the same physical size.
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