Re: (ET) Loss of power on incline

[David C Robie <mycroftxx1 juno com>]

When you mentioned the plate at front getting hot that was the clue that
counted.   It show that there is an armature dropping resistor, part of
the speed control in start first and second still in the circuit when it
shouldn't be.

1)   There are two huge armature dropping resistors on that top plate. 
They are sequenced through the speed lever
       thusly;  none shorted out by contactors (1st position starting) 
one shorted by it's contactor,  the second
       shorted by it's contactor.   These are contactors 1A and 2A. 

2)   Your trouble is that one of those resistors is not getting shorted
out.


3)   Put the tranny in neutral (and as a safety measure jack up one rear
wheel also) Satisfy the seat safety, brake off.
       now start the tractor, listening for the heavy click of 1A then
2A..   If both of them click, you have just proved out
       the microswitches at the controller's cam that turn them on. 
Trouble is NOT at the controller assy.  
       When each one clicks, the motor should gain a bit of speed.  
              If  one doesn't click,  trouble is either it's coil burned
out, or the controller's cam switch going to that
       coil is not closing.  (there's a long line of microswitches in
line, 1A and 2A are the second and third in line) .
              If both click,  go to (4).   (note that in the above test
you never get into field speeds just armature)

4)   With the kick panel off, 1A and 2A are on most tractors at the top. 
See if their 'heavy wire' terminals are rusted
       or need tightening.  Be careful tightening em, squirt with your
favorite rust breaker before doing it.  If those
       contactors have plastic shells they may break easily.  Retest,
listening for the slight rise in motor RPM.
       If it don't rise through both !a and 2A clicks - - - you will have
to put it in the 2A click position with motor running
       and measure voltage across the big terminals, which should be none
on either when they are both closed.

5)   At this point you have 2 possibilities.  A bad or burned connection
at the front resistor terminal which goes to
       the 'clicking but not changine RPM' relay,  or a bad contactor
itself.  
       Shut off tractor and also the battery disconnect switch.   Remove
the single screw at the top of that 
       'battery charger plate) and visually inspect the 3 big terminls.
Squirt and tighten all 3 of those.  If
        you find one burned looking, take it apart and clean it. put
together, tighten.

6)   If you come up with 'bad contactor' - temporarily you can get the
tractor running again by shorting the 2 big terminals
       together while waiting for the new part (Harry has 'em).  Tractor
will be a bit jerky, going direct from one armature 
       (rather than 3) to  'field speeds' but it won't hurt anything if
you don't use it much. 

I have dealt with several of these.  Only one was a burned out contactor
coil.  Incidentally, on some tractors, one of those resistance elements
opening up (by burning up at it's terminal usually) will cause a
mysterious 'no power at all'  symptom that defies std troubleshooting
technique. Reason;  On some,  contactor coil voltage has to go through
those resistors first.  If a nichrome element burns open , it can be
welded using stainless steel. Usually just a good take apart and clean up
(sometimes a new brass washer too) will fix em, 

While on the subject;  With good microswitches in the controller and no
mechanical looseness in it, and all good parts, speed switching, ramping
up or down through the speeds is just as smooth as an electronic.  With
either of these problems it will be herky jerky. Anyone, write me if you
have this jerky speed switching problem, got a couple fixes for it.

Happy etrackin

Dave
Weymouth MA

    



 



On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:33:17 -0400 Arnold Sabatelli
<asabatelli adelphia net> writes:
> David,
> 
> My E16 is still not happy going uphill.  I've replaced both belts 
> with a
> matched set of good belts (as per recommendations).  If I'm mowing 
> in L or
> D1, and I'm on the level or going downhill, the gears/tractor seems 
> to
> operate fine, the minute there's even the slightest incline, the 
> tractor
> slows down considerably, and on slightly steep terrain will come to 
> a stop.
> If I pull the throttle back to neutral, then push it back up, it 
> will
> reengage and go for a ways before slowing/stopping again.  LL will 
> at least
> get me up the hills, albeit slowly.  In pretty basic layman's terms 
> could
> someone give me a plan of action for trouble shooting this issue.  
> I've
> noticed that the vertical part of the metal mesh/charging plate is 
> quite hot
> when I stop.  I've checked connections on the side of the motor, as 
> was
> suggested by another etracker, thinking I might have knocked 
> something loose
> when tightening belts, and I found nothing.  I'm also told to "check 
> the
> relays for a weakening of field,' but I don't really understand what 
> that
> means, nor how to do it.  As I've mentioned to you before, I'm a 
> real newbie
> to these things.  I'm just about ready to throw in the towel, but 
> thought
> I'd see if I can at least get it running right before I do that.  
> Any
> advice/assistance greatly appreciated.
> 
> (By the way, I did finally receive several large folders of wiring 
> diagrams,
> manuals and repair manuals.  I think you mentioned you needed 
> something, if
> I had it.  Remind me what it was you were looking for, and I can 
> copy/send
> if I've got it.)
> 
> --
> Arnie Sabatelli 
> 203.393.9679
> 
> 
> 
>