Re: (ET) ok, not the fusible link

[David C Robie <mycroftxx1 juno com>]

BE SURE that all connections under the tractor to the motor especially
the little wires are oK.  You could've hooked something, a branch etc
that loosened em.   At least this time there was no issue of blood and
you know that all the major stuff is OK as she ran.
   If it twer me would check the RTN contacts  and open the kickplate, 
put some WD better yet a good breakfree on all the big relay terminals
then tighten em.

A bad connection at the 3 big terminals on the armature resistor guard on
front would cause this too.  Breakfree em and tighten em.

Dave
Weymouth MA


 

On Sun, 30 Jul 2006 17:23:32 -0400 (EDT) Michael S Briggs
<msbriggs alberti unh edu> writes:
> 
> Dammit! Ok, apparently it's NOT fixed. I was able to drive out to 
> the 
> yard. I was able to turn on the mower deck while sitting still. As 
> soon as 
> I then tried moving, with the deck on, the drive motor cut out. The 
> blades 
> kept moving until I turned the deck off - and of course won't start 
> back 
> up (the blades or anything else).
>       Seems to be the same symptoms as I had before *after* 
> replacing 
> the blown fuse and soldering back together the fuse block. (the fuse 
> 
> didn't blow this time)
>         When I engage the power disconnect and try driving, I hear a 
> click, 
> the power use gauge jumps up into the yellow, but nothing happens 
> (no 
> drive motor engaged). When I try engaging the PTO (mower deck), 
> nothing 
> happens (no power use change, no mower deck coming on).
>       It seems like there's some short in the drive motor circuit 
> 
> somewhere. Just before it cut down, I engaged the blades, and the 
> power 
> use spiked to red as it started spinning the blades, then came down 
> to the 
> high end of the green (those gator blades seem to use a lot of power 
> - I 
> think I'll switch back to the regular ones). When I then tried 
> driving, 
> with the mower deck on, the power use gauge spiked red, and I moved 
> about 
> an inch before the drive motor cut out.
>       I'll start looking through the drive motor line. Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael S. Briggs
> UNH Physics Department
> (603) 862-2828
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> On Sun, 30 Jul 2006, Michael S Briggs wrote:
> 
> >
> > Ok, update on this - I seem to have it working now. I checked CB-1 
> this 
> > morning, and it was fine (although it may have tripped and had to 
> cool down - 
> > how long does it normally take for CB-1 to cool down and close 
> again?). 
> > Checked the power disconnect, and it's fine.
> >     I put a new inline fuse holder in where the control fuse 
> goes on the 
> > fuse block, with a new fuse. I also checked the main power switch, 
> and it's 
> > fine. So, being stumped about why it stopped working, I decided to 
> just give 
> > her another try since I had replaced that bad fuse block terminal 
> with a new 
> > inline fuse - and she works!
> >     I'll still go through again and do some more inspecting 
> for melting 
> > insulation on wires, that could have caused the smoke, but as of 
> now, it 
> > seems like the only problem was the blown control fuse, which then 
> blew that 
> > part of the fuse block (so just replacing the fuse didn't get it 
> working). 
> > CB-1 *may* have been tripped also though, I'm not sure.
> >
> > Thanks for your help guys,
> > Mike
> >
> >
>