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Re: (ET) one blade not cutting well
Well if you're going to just throw it away, throw it in the trash in
Weymouth MA. I'll take it.
How about just doing a bit of mowing and feeling all 3 motors for
temperature? If the bad one is hotter or cooler than the others it'll
tell you something.
I've seen a lot of motors with cracked field magnets. Crack can be
fixed with JB weld. They still work but got a bit less power if it's a
bad crack.
Dave
Weymouth MA
On Wed, 26 Jul 2006 16:36:34 -0400 "Konstanty, Walter \(GE Indust,
ConsInd\)" <Walter Konstanty ge com> writes:
> This thread is getting so long I can't remember the key points
> anymore...
> - Blades are turning all same way?
> - Switch motors around may isolate the motor
> - Switch blades around may isolate a heavy/bad blade
> - Armatures really don't "get tired"....current flows to maintain
> terminal volts/speed
> and if shorted, they blow up (go to ground, melt, etc)...if the
> permanent magnets get weakened, speed increases
> but torque decreases. Magnets get weak from removing the rotor too
> many times or
> external demagnetization.
> - Measuring motor currents lets you know load between
> motors...measuring speed also
> would be "neat".
> - Rear or side discharge may affect the right-most motor more if all
> grass thrown that way.
> - Friction or bad bearings show up quickly.
>
> Maybe we all need PLC upgrades to monitor motor temperatures,
> load, speed, amount of
> grass cut/snow plowed...that would be real neat.
>
> ....Walt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
> [mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu]On Behalf Of Michael
> S
> Briggs
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:35 PM
> To: Klein Robert W NPRI
> Cc: Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> Subject: Re: (ET) one blade not cutting well
>
>
>
> On Wed, 26 Jul 2006, Klein Robert W NPRI wrote:
>
> > That's what your doing with an ammeter which has an internal shunt
> to
> > the meter.
>
> Using a voltmeter to measure the voltage across a shunt isn't quite
> the
> same as what I'm saying (although of course most common ammeters do
> work
> that way). The main difference being that with the voltmeter and
> shunt
> approach I'd need to go out and buy some low resistance shunt to put
> in
> series with the motor, whereas I already have multimeters that can
> measure
> currents up to 10A. Me being cheap, I'd prefer an approach that
> doesn't
> involve buying anything new if possible. :)
> Whether installing a shunt or just using an ammeter, the
> same
> thing is going on electrically (since most ammeters just measre V
> across a
> shunt), but from the pocketbook perspective, they're different. :-)
> But, the ammeter approach wouldn't work if the current
> through the
> motors is typically >10A. It will just blow the fuse in the meters,
> which
> I have plenty of, but it would mean I couldn't use that approach,
> and
> would have to go buy a shunt.
> I think you mentioned previously that it sounds like a bad
> armature - I don't see how the armature could be bad really. The
> armature
> is just a winding of coils for current to flow through, for the
> field to
> make a torque on to spin the motor. Isn't the only way the armature
> could
> be bad when there is some break in the coil circuit, such that
> current
> couldn't flow through the armature at all? (which would mean the
> motor
> wouldn't spin)
> Or perhaps some of the wires in the coil could short if the
>
> coating is worn off?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>
>
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Michael S Briggs [mailto:msbriggs alberti unh edu]
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 1:04 PM
> > To: Klein Robert W NPRI
> > Cc: 'steves'; Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> > Subject: Re: (ET) one blade not cutting well
> >
> >
> >
> > Why not just put an ammeter in series? How much current do these
> mower
> > deck motors normally pull? As long as it's <10A, I have some nice
> > multimeters that can measure currents up that high. I can just pop
> the
> > lid, disconnect the leads, and put the multimeter (in ammeter
> mode) in
> > series with the motor.
> > Or is the current >10A normally?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mike
> >
> >
>
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