Re: (ET) Here's the actual battery

[Dave Stensland <evmailbox frontiernet net>]

Hi Arnie,

I respectfully disagree with Joel. Your new batteries should work just fine. I've used that post pattern in my tractors before.

Keep the batteries. Change the cables or just the ends of the cables where you can't replace the entire cable. 

Because of all the acid on top of the flooded lead acid batteries, Elec-Trak battery cables tend to corrode over time, so it's probably a good idea to fix your connections anyway. Besides, it's probably cheaper than trying to swap batteries again and will probably take less effort. 

You can find ready-made cables and connectors for most... if not all... of your connections at Sears, Autozone, Walmart etc. Yes, you'll get a little dirty but in the end you'll have fresh battery connections. 

Also, make sure that you arrange the batteries so the posts aren't touching the metal rivets under the seat. You want them so if they stick up a bit they'll just grind into the masonite backer board. That way you don't have to cut anything.

I'd say do your battery work now and be done with it. It's not that hard.

-Dave


On Jun 20, 2006, at 8:24 AM, Joel Parks wrote:

> HI Arnie,
>  
> I guess the reason nobody is stepping up to give you a firm answer on this (trade batteries or build new battery cables) is because we don't know how "handy" you are with materials and tools, in this case cable fabrication.  It's not rocket science but it is a certain amount of work and there will be inevitable maintenance problems down the road ...
>  
> My suggestion in this case is that you replace the batteries at this time with ones that have the right post for your tractor.  Unless you want an additional challenge before you even get around to trying to troubleshoot the existing problems the tractors may or may not have.  Shouldn't be too hard to find a set of 6 used batteries from a golf course shop in your vicinity, and considering how much money you have sunk in the tractors so far it'll still be a bargain even if you buy new.
>  
> Joel
>  
> > <x-tad-bigger>----- Original Message -----</x-tad-bigger>
> > <x-tad-bigger>From:</x-tad-bigger><x-tad-bigger> </x-tad-bigger><x-tad-bigger>Arnold Sabatelli</x-tad-bigger><x-tad-bigger> </x-tad-bigger>
> > <x-tad-bigger>To:</x-tad-bigger><x-tad-bigger> </x-tad-bigger><x-tad-bigger>elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu</x-tad-bigger><x-tad-bigger> </x-tad-bigger>
> > <x-tad-bigger>Sent:</x-tad-bigger><x-tad-bigger> Tuesday, June 20, 2006 8:06 AM</x-tad-bigger>
> > <x-tad-bigger>Subject:</x-tad-bigger><x-tad-bigger> (ET) Here's the actual battery</x-tad-bigger>
> >
> > Here's a photo I found online of the actual batteries I have with the terminal type that my automotive style cables will not attach to (a 5/16 post that’s far too skinny in a lead post that’s far too fat) 1yr old $35.  Worth replacing my cables to make them work, or return them and find batteries with auto-style terminal posts is my dilemma....Thanks again to everyone for the help. 
> >
> > <unknown.jpg>
> >
> >
> > --
> > Arnie Sabatelli 
> >
> >
> >
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