Perry Cain wrote:
Well, fixed it. Checked voltage across wire 16 /25. Was NOT getting 36V. Decided to take the dang card #4 off again. Checked the Diodes. Sure enough, the one at position 17 was burnt. Not the diode itself, but the connector end right under the connector was burned off. Had to put solder on it. I take it back when I said the card looked brand new. It did, but not underneath the connector. Laid some solder down on it. Hooked it back up. Ran correctly for a few seconds. Smoke. Dead.
Yup. Those diodes carry a lot of power when all the contactors are engaged.
Took it out again. This time, the actual traces had burned off the board. Soldered them with wires, cleaned up the connections. Squeezed the plastic connector so it would get a good connection. Hooked it up. Drove it all through the yard for about 10 minutes.
That will do it. Clean up the connector and you should be in good shape. I actually had one of those diodes burn in *half* so you might want to think about replacing the four of them with a nice set of heavy duty diodes from Radio Shack.
Right. And when you press the pedal to speed 5-6-7-8 it should deactivate the cruise control. The light should also come on in speed 4 as well.1.Cruise control works at speed 4, not 8 correct?
2. FW open relay question. How do the wires at the bottom of the open relay connect? Somewhere I may have gotten confused? I think its right, but if someone could check and let me know I would appreciate it. Can't be quite sure looking at the schematic.
They connect only when the relay is energised. Remember, this is designed to bypass the FW resistors if the motor gets overloaded.
Enjoy the tractor! Chris