(ET) Fixed. Was: Re: one speed, no power E20

["Perry Cain" <perry suppleye com>]

Well, fixed it. Checked voltage across wire 16 /25.  Was NOT getting 36V.

Decided to take the dang card #4 off again.  Checked the Diodes.  Sure
enough, the one at position 17 was burnt.  Not the diode itself, but the
connector end right under the connector was burned off.  Had to put solder
on it.  I take it back when I said the card looked brand new.  It did, but
not underneath the connector.

Laid some solder down on it.  Hooked it back up.  Ran correctly for a few
seconds.  Smoke. Dead.

Took it out again.  This time, the actual traces had burned off the board.
Soldered them with wires, cleaned up the connections.  Squeezed the plastic
connector so it would get a good connection.  Hooked it up.  Drove it all
through the yard for about 10 minutes.

ALSO: Cruise control fixed.   Had never ridden an E20 with speed 8 before.
Guess it had never really worked right.  It really moves!!!

Thanks to Chris Zach for his patient step by step approach, and many
responses.  Thanks to Thomas Kuffa for helping me get at that point on the
card.  Thanks to Rod Hower, and EVERYONE else on this list who suggested
solutions.  I tried EVERY SINGLE ONE.


Two quick questions. (pushing my luck)
1.Cruise control works at speed 4, not 8 correct?
2. FW open relay question.  How do the wires at the bottom of the open 
relay
connect?  Somewhere I may have gotten confused?  I think its right, but if
someone could check and let me know I would appreciate it.  Can't be quite
sure looking at the schematic.

Thanks to everyone on this list.

TO SHARE KNOWLEDGE:
A.To check the diodes, most multimeters have a diode check setting.  You 
can
also check to see there is resistance if your multimeter does only that.  
If
you don't get resistance, it is bad.  This is what I learned on how to test
the diodes on the board.  If this inaccurate, someone can correct.

B.Make sure that board is tight. I believe it was burning from arcing by
being loose.  Someone in the archives had suggested squeezing the plastic
connector while it is unattached.

C. Do Not Give Up!  While I doubt I could have found it without help, help
is available if you put in the time following the suggestions.

Thanks once again to all.  Sorry this message is so long, just excited that
it works in its original condition.



Thanks again to all.