Re: (ET) one speed, no power E20

[Pieter <pvcl plitch com>]

I'd agree that the E-15 suffers from its "delicate" controls.  I don't have 
an E-20, but my E-12 with its robust mechanical switching will survive 
lifes's minor worries (like shifting from forward to reverse while rolling) 
better than my E-15.  I wanted to offer a speculative response on the 
reason for the "electronic" controls in the E-15.  I would guess the answer 
is not so much the cost pressure, but rather the idea at the time of 
production, transistors were really cool.  Anything that was 
"transistorized" had to, almost by definition, be better than the same 
machine with mechanical controls.  Never mind that the solid state 
switching was poor then and worse with age.

In my case, a mouse had built a urine soaked nest on the board while the 
SPO (Stupid Previous Owner - my brother-in-law) had it in storage under a 
tarp outside.  The card was full of corroded junctions.  At the time I 
acquired it I didn't know about Bill Gunn, so I bought all the components 
and rebuilt the board by hand.  About got it right too.  It is still 
working, but will be upgraded to an Alltrax controller when I get two days 
off in a row and the nerve.

I agree that it is good and useful to preserve working antique tractors 
with original control systems.  As artifacts I am sure they will some day 
be worth more than modified, just like carefully restored Model A Fords are 
worth more than some heavily modified hot rods.  However, if you want to 
use an E-15 every day, there is reason to change the control system. Since 
the E-20 is substantially different, I will reserve judgement on its 
suitability for everyday use.

Some stuff on my site: www.plitch.com



At 11:41 AM 6/2/2005, Christopher Zach wrote:
> Sure, you can put the E20 stuff in. I don't know if the E15 has the shunt 
> to shut down speeds 5-8, also you would need the harness that includes the 
> connections for card 4.
>
> The push pull contactors are way better than the E15's quasi electronic 
> control. I think GE was trying to go the cheap route with the E15. Which 
> is a shame, but they must have been under cost pressure.
>
> Chris
>
> Jeff Tickner wrote:
> > I read the below conversation with interest. I have an E15 that I am 
> > rebuilding bodywise and I've pretty much blown my budget for an Alltrax, 
> > especially since the price has gone up. I recently picked up a bunch of 
> > parts and motors. I have an E20 dash, an E20 motor and I think I have an 
> > E20 wiring harness and contactors so I was considering converting to an 
> > E20 when I put my tractor back together. But being an E15 originally it 
> > has no provision for the foot pedal speed control, I'd have to stick with 
> > the hand control throttle.
> > I have a shop manual from Bill for my E15 but it covers the E20 also, is 
> > this a reasonable thing to do (given I'm not missing any major 
> > components) or am I missing some major hurdle?
> >  > I strongly recommend that you give up.
> >  > On the GE controller, I mean, not on the tractor!
> > I strongly disagree.
> >  > There are several components on the control cards which suffer from age 
> > -
> >  > notably the electrolytic capacitors.  Yes, they can be replaced; but 
> > after
> >  > repairing the main card in my E15 a few times and struggling with the 
> > truly
> >  > awful connections to it, I decided that rather than rebuild the card 
> > it was
> >  > time to let the tractor join the late 20th century.
> > The E20 has one transistor, one FET, and a bunch of diodes. True that it
> > does have a few resistors, but you can get a new one from Harold for $50
> > if card 4 really blows up.
> > Remember the E20 is not like the E15: It's built using discrete
> > components. There really isn't much to fail on them.
> >
> >
> > Jeff Tickner
> > Technical Support
> > 800-545-9485, Ext 536
> > SoftLanding Systems
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