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(ET) Lift motors from cars



Ok. In an effort to fix my real lift, I went out on Ebay and got a deal: 4 window motors from a 1971 Buick. All were in pretty close to perfect shape. All for $20.00+15.00 shipping.

What a deal. I'm sure everyone thought these would be great cheap substitutes for the stock elec-trak lift motors:

Forget it.

I put one together last night. Hummed perfectly at 12 volts on the bench. Took off the gear system, changed the brushes to support a third wire instead of ground, drilled a hole in the side of the unit, and ran the wire. Packed it up, and tested it again.

Perfect.

So I filed down the case protrusion so it would work in the rear lift. Simple job. Once done I mounted it to the rear lift, hooked it up to the tractor and tested it no load.

Quick. Very nice, very strong. So I hooked it up to the tractor. Mind you it has an internal breaker, and I had it on a 30 amp fuse to 18 volts of the rear batteries.

BOY does this thing lift the tiller. No problem, hauls it right up. That should have been my clue; nothing works that well.

So I did a row or two, lift died. Drove back to the shed, took the motor off, ran it on 12 volts. Very slow, very high current. Opened it up.

The armature wires are badly burned. Commutator (which was clean when I put it in) was black from carbon arcing. The resistance of the field was half what it should have been and most of the windings looked burned. This was from a few minutes.

My guess is that GE wired the motors to handle 18 volts by rewinding the armatures and stator coils. Or maybe just the armatures. Whatever they did, the stock 12 volt motors can't be run at 18 volts. They will be carbonized as sure as 18 volt lift motors are at 24 volts.

I'm going to try and build another motor and run it on a 12 volt tap. Might work better, but my guess is the lift power will be less, the amp draw will be more, etc.

The right solution is to pay $$$ for a new GE lift motor :-) Anyone else have a running Buick window motor?

Chris