RE: (ET) Re: testing batteries

["Dave & Deb" <daveb drizzle com>]

just about any grocery store has it, about $1 a gallon
Dave

> Here's a question for everyone... Where do you get your distilled water?
> Just curious...
>
> Bob Klein
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Wallace [mailto:metman glasgow-ky com]
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 11:15 AM
> To: jbc coate org; Elec-Trak
> Subject: Re: (ET) Re: testing batteries
>
>
> Thanks for the help guys.
>
> The maintenance guy at the Country Club has just two 36 volt carts to
> change out right now, and he's pretty sure only one cart might have 
> decent
> batteries.  I'll try and get him to make sure that set is charged before
> he takes them out.  He thinks the owner (just happens to be my dentist,
> but he doesn't know I want his old batteries) did a decent job of 
> watering
> with distilled water only and keeping them charged regularly.
>
> I'll fix the load tester and take it, my Fluke, a hydrometer, and a pad a
> paper
> with me when I go look at them next week.
>
> Jim, when you said, "should be over 6 volts no load, and over 5 volts 
> with
>  load", did you mean when using recommended 10 second load test at 100
> amps with the automotive load tester?  I doubt if this old load tester
> could take much more, but with only $5 and some time replacing one of the
> leads invested, so what if I burn it up.
>
> Thanks again,
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Coate" <jbc coate org>
> To: "Elec-Trak" <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 9:13 AM
> Subject: (ET) Re: testing batteries
>
>
>> To *really* test the batteries would take a lot of time that you can't
>> do in the field. However, assuming you have a pile to choose from for
>> cheap:
>>
>> You could first open the caps and look inside. No water, lots of gross
>> stuff growing on the plates, etc. would be cause to move on. Also make
>> sure the terminals and case don't look abused, dropped, etc. Then can
>> use your load tester... should be over 6 volts no load, and over 5
>> volts with load. Any battery that drops under 4 volts has a reversed
>> cell so leave it and move on.
>>
>> This will get you a bunch of cheap batteries that at least have some
>> life in them. You won't know how much capacity they have until you
>> either do detailed load testing (ie keep a load on them until
>> discharged, recharge, and repeat several times). Putting them in the
>> tractor is probably the easiest way to test. I'd be tempted to buy say
>> 9 potentially decent ones so as to have a few backups. If you have an
>> external charger, it would be a good idea to charge the batteries
>> individually before trying in the tractor (or at least in pairs if you
>> have a 12-volt automotive charger handy).
>>
>>
>> Mike Wallace wrote:
>>> Okay guys, I got one for you to discuss.  I've got a lead on some
>>> supposedly "decent" used golf cart batteries for $6 a piece from a
>>> local golf course. $6 is the current core charge that the Interstate
>>> dealer is charging the guy that's selling the new batteries to the
>>> guy at the golf course.
>>>
>>> What's the best way to try and field test them before I go to the
>>> trouble of buying them and bringing them home.  Currently in my area,
>>> no recycling businesses are buying old batteries.
>>>
>>> Is the standard automotive load tester worth using on our batteries?
>>> I recently acquired a "defective" one that just needed a new lead on
>>> one side; and naturally I've got a hydrometer and volt meter.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions?  Especially on just how to use the load tester, if
>>> it's feasible to even try to use it.
>>>
>>> Mike in KY
>>
>> _________
>> Jim Coate
>> 1970's Elec-Trak
>> 1998 Chevy S-10 BEV
>> 1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
>> http://www.eeevee.com
>>
>>
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>
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