Thank you for this info Harry.
My E15 came with the clamp on terminals
that are also secured by using large washers and nuts on the screw on portion
of the combo post to force them down on to the lug. I've had to replace
most of the clamps and I don't like way the wire attaches but wasn't sure
how to go about soldering. I use deoxit cleaner on the wires but they still
get pretty funky over time.
When I get to my tractor rebuild with
my new sheet metal from Keith and hopefully an Alltrax I'll redo all my
battery cables also.
Jeff Tickner
Technical Support
800-545-9485, Ext 536
SoftLanding Systems
"harry landis"
<hlandis hotmail com> Sent by: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
02/04/2005 12:24 AM
To
Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
cc
Subject
Re: (ET) cable terminals
For those who like the lead clamp on terminals, you
can take a regular cheap
one with the steel clamp and throw away the clamp and bolts and solder
the
cable directly to the lead. Lead melts at a higher temp than solder, and
solders easily if youy don't overheat it and melt it. Tin the cable first
by
smearing on flux and dipping it in molten lead or solder. You may have
to do
it a couple of times to get a good coating. Tinned wire works best, and
also
will have fewer corrosion issues. But it should also be tinned as above
to
bond the srtrands together before soldering to the terminal. A propane
torch
works fine. Electronic or plumber's 50/50 solder is fine. Don't use lead
free solder as it melts at a higher temp.
Harry Landis
From: "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <roden ald net>
To: Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) cable terminals
Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2005 00:13:34 -0500
On 2 Feb 2005 at 22:27, Chris Zach wrote:
> From what I've heard on the EV lists, the problem with the
ring and
> stud is that the bolt comes loose over time which leads to a loose
cable
which
> leads to a melted post.
I hear this a lot, and I have no doubt that the combination terminals that
golf cars often use are not the optimum. However, I have never had
problems
with these terminals, either on the ET or on a road EV with a current limit
of
anywhere from 250 to 400 amps. I use ordinary split washers combined
with
flat washers - not even Bellville washers - and just apply a wrench (gently)
every few months.
So far, the only battery connection I ever had fail was the cruddy generic
bolt-on clamp terminal that I used "temporarily" (uh, yeah, that's
it ;-) on
my Comuta-Car.
If you are running a 700 or 1000 amp controller, no question about it -
you
need the absolute best connection possible. But at the currents the
ET
requires, it's not such a big deal, IMO. Use good stuff, but don't
spend
your
entire allowance on high-priced lugs or clamps.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
1991 Solectria Force 144vac
1991 Ford Escort Green/EV 128vdc
1970 GE Elec-trak E15 36vdc
1974 Avco New Idea 36vdc
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In politics stupidity is not a handicap.
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