Re: (ET) Broken Breaker

[Michael J DeLiso <mjdeliso juno com>]

Steve,
Sounds like two problems to me. 
Work the disconnect switch (DS) on the left side and watch the fuel
gauage.
When the DS  makes connection the fuel gauge and lights should work.
The motor Klixon by Texas Instruments Inc. probably died of exposure to
the elements.
It is only in the drive motor circuit in factory wiring jobs.
I have seen them in RV stores as replacement parts. But I by-passed one
of mine 8 years ago 
when I broke a bolt on the electrical connections. All depends on what
you are comfortable with.
The number on the red button is the amperage rating. Try to get the same
amperage. 
Texas Instruments has more info on their web site.

Mike D

On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 09:57:05 -0400 SteveS <ssawtelle fcc net> writes:
> My E20 was dead when I went to use it the other day - like no-nothing 
> 
> dead. I have 36V lights so even lights didn't work. Turns out the 
> main 
> thermal breaker on the motor was open. I took it off and heard parts 
> 
> rattling around inside. No biggy - I took one out of one of my 
> junker 
> E12Ss and as I walked towards the E20 I shook the breaker - rattles! 
> 
> Man, do these things have a 30 year self destruct or something?
> 
> I (of couse) took one apart and found the end of the adjustment bolt 
> was 
> broken off - not sure why. I'm tempted (of course) to fix it.
> 
> So, anyone know what temperature it should cut out at?
> 
> BTW, I don't get the wiring concept here. Why have the motor breaker 
> cut 
> power to everything? Sure made it hard to troubleshoot. 'Course for 
> some 
> reason I thought the main breaker was the one up on the battery side 
> 
> panel - that threw me for awhile.
> 
> SteveS
> E20
> 
> 
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