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I blew the fusible link on my E10M some years ago. I got a new
one from Bill that time. I just did a quck Google search on fusible link. It
turned up several web pages, but I think this link is the one to try
first:
This shows Fusible Link Wire kits which look like they
might work well, Some background and suggestions are also given. The prices
shown are only in the $3-$5 range. It looks like one of these would probably
work with a sheet of bakelite as Mike suggested.
I also found fusinle link wire at Checker Auto Supply which
worked temporarily, at least. A Golf Cart place also might have some with higher
current ratings.
Herb Crary
Boulder CO
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Wallace
To: Ralph G Vogan ; Elec-Trak
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: (ET) Master Switch You can get this same disconnect switch from JC
Whitney for about $24 vs $27 from EV Parts. Shipping costs look about
the same.
As for the fuseable link, none of the "off
brand" manual disconnects will have anything like it already
attached. I believe that the ones Bill Gunn
supplied had been modified, by him, to be able to still use the original
fuseable link. Shouldn't be a big deal to add a piece of sheet Bakelite
with a couple holes drilled in it to mount the link and use the switch's
own terminals to hold it all in place.
It's not the easiest thing to do, but the OEM
disconnect switch can be taken apart and the contact surfaces cleaned to sorta
"rebuild" it. Seems like I may have
even put in a stronger spring in one some years back, but it's still a marginal
unit.
Anybody got a theory, or first hand
experience, as to whether or not we even need the fuseable
link? Has anybody ever "blown"
theirs? Or are they just another place to burn your fingers when
looking for bad/high resistance connections?
Mike Wallace
Glasgow, KY
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