Repost: (ET) Monty's ET "Oz Bucket"

["Monty McGraw" <mmcgraw74 hotmail com>]

I'm reposting my message to the list for the dump bucket I built, based on
Shaun Clamp's 'Oz Bucket' posting.

my pictures are still available through the link below.

monty

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Monty McGraw" <mmcgraw74 hotmail com>
To: <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 8:16 PM
Subject: (ET) Monty's ET "Oz Bucket"


> I wanted to share pictures with the ET list of my "Oz Bucket" based on
Shaun
> N Clamp's email posting back in May 2002 of his design.
>
>
http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mmcgraw74/album?.tok=phOsDlABSzNfPtbo&.dir=/fca5&.src=ph
>
> This was the largest welding project I've tackled and I've had no formal
> training in welding.
>
> The bucket is welded using only 1/8th inch thick steel plate and 1/8" 
> inch
> 1.5"x1.5" angle steel.
>
> All I had to go on was the three pictures (which I posted on my photo
album)
> and the outside dimensions of the bucket as Shaun's email outlined.
>
> I did not draw up plans for this bucket, just got out my measuring tape,
cut
> and welded :)
>
> I did find that the 7" cutoff blades sold in the hardware stores for
> circular saws are a fine way to cut the 1/8" steel.  I also discovered
that
> a 4' x 8' plate of 1/8" steel is very heavy - I had the steel supply 
> place
> cut that sheet into two 4' x 4' pieces, which I had them put on the roof
> rack on my Honda station wagon - it did lower the wagon on the springs :)
I
> also picked up two 8' pieces of 1.5"x1.5" angle iron and the two steel
> hinges at the steel supply store - quite a bit cheaper than Lowes or Home
> Depot for the angle iron - and neither of those two stores carried the
steel
> plate.
>
> First item was cutting the plates for the bucket and welding them.  I
would
> clamp two pieces together on my workbench and use my little Lincoln MIG
> welder from Home Depot (no gas - just arc).  I would clamp the pieces on
the
> edge - and fill in the space with the 'bead'.  I had my best success
welding
> vertically, letting gravity do part of the work.
>
> The frame was next to construct.  I decided to do it the hard way and 
> weld
> two angles together to make two 'tubes' for the main frame.  If I did it
> again, I might just use steel tube.  The ET bracket that is used to mount
> the snowblower and dozer blade has a round bar at least an inch diameter 
> -
> so welding the flat steel pieces to the top and bottom of the "tubes"
easily
> clears the round bar.  Basically you drill holes through those brackets
and
> use a standard pin and clevis on each side to fasten the bucket to the
> tractor mount.
>
> I put angle iron on both ends to strengthen the assembly.  But you notice
> that the bucket needs to lay flat on the ground - and the mounting frame
> will be at a slight angle.  I welded an additional angle iron on the 
> front
> of the frame - in order to try to get a better angle for welding the
> brackets on the bucket - this was not necessary.
>
> The upside down "U" next to the bucket gives you the spot to put a 
> release
> latch.  My design here is a little different than Shaun's photo - I 
> welded
a
> short piece of angle iron to the bucket, and then used the cutoff blade 
> to
> notch this piece and angle the leading edge.  "Bucket Details 5" shows a
> small scrap piece welded to the "U" frame as a stop for the latch plate -
> hanging from the spring in that photo.  This piece is mounted to "stop"
the
> latch so that when the bucket is lowered, the catch can push the latch
plate
> back.  This part of my design is not working right - so I just pull the
> release cord when the bucket is lowered and release the cord to secure 
> the
> bucket.
>
> You will notice the two small brackets attached to the front of the 
> frame.
> That is where I put the high strength bolt with a sleeve for the lift
strap.
> My first bracket (lower holes in the photo) was too far away from the
> strap - so I added more angle iron to raise the mount to the necessary
> height.  Not the best welding - but I was in a hurry to try the bucket :)
>
> I finished the bucket between Christmas and New Years and applied the
bucket
> to the task of moving dirt from the street to the backyard.  My mounting
> holes for the bolt to attach to the lift strap are not level, so the 
> strap
> wanders to the right bracket and the right edge began to get chewed up on
> the bolt.  I need to weld a big washer to each end of the sleeve - to act
> like a spool to protect the belt, and widen the left hole so the bolt is
> level under tension.  I also noticed that the time to lower and raise the
> bucket with the strap looped back to the lift frame is a bit long if you
are
> in a hurry - it was near dark :)
>
> The pile of dirt I was trying to move had been there a year, so it was
> difficult to get much of a bite to lift.  Also lifting a bucket over
filled
> with dirt is a chore for the lift.  So I began to get out of the tractor
> seat and use a shovel to fill the bucket.  Then I found that I could 
> leave
> the frame raised, drop the load, then just get out and relatch the 
> bucket.
> This turned the bucket / tractor into a power wheelbarrow.
>
> I had low spots in the backyard, so dumping the bucket over the low spots
> was quite easy without getting the tractor stuck in mud.  It would not
have
> been that easy with a wheelbarrow.
>
> I may have overdesigned the frame - and made it too heavy.  Next time I'd
be
> tempted to just use angle iron and not make solid tubes for the frame.  I
> think 1/8" steel is the right choice for the bucket, though.
>
> I am happy with the result - it certainly made 'hauling dirt' a lot of
fun!
> I also included a picture of the sears leaf sweeper attached to the quick
> connect hitch on the back of my tractor.  Thanks Shaun for the "Oz 
> Bucket"
> project!  I sense more ET welding projects in the future.
>
> Monty McGraw
> Spring Texas
> GE I-5
> two project ET tractors - an I-5 and an E-20
>
>
> I've included Shaun's construction emails below:
>
> "The first bucket I made was too big and although the front lift on 
> double
> purchase had no problems lifting the load, the front weight was too heavy
> for the king pins which bent after going over some bumpy ground.
>
> In use, you can dig with this bucket or drive it into a mound of dirt and
> operate the lift to tilt it backwards. To tip, you release the latch. 
> When
> you lower the bucket to the ground, the latch clicks shut again.
>
> In the meantime, some other info'. The bucket size is 32"wide, 14" high
and
> 12" deep. The frame fits on to the front implement bracket just like the
> dozer blade. The angle of the frame is arranged to allow the bottom of 
> the
> bucket to be flat on the ground in the lowered position. The bucket
swivels
> on brackets welded to the bottom of the frame. The  frame has forked ends
to
> fit the tractor mounting and is 23" long from forks to bucket. The spring
> loaded latch is pretty simple and easy to release but is better described
> with a sketch and a picture.  I am quite certain that you guys/gals will
> come up with some great improvements.  Out here I have tended to relax
into
> the  laid back style of "if it ain't broke then don't fix it"!!
>
> A warning on the front bucket - do not carry more that about 250 pounds
> unless you are certain that you have either a cast front axle (Pre mid
1972)
> or the fabricated axle fitted with case hardened spindles. I have sent
Larry
> a diagram to explain this, but in the fabricated axle the spindle is held
> between separate top and bottom bearings. With too much load on the front
> tires the spindle will bend inside the axle and it is one hell of a job 
> to
> get it out!!  This problem is covered in an ET Product Service Bulletin 
> 0f
> April 7, 1972 - I will send Larry a copy.
>
> You know when you have bent spindles, the steering goes stiff and grease
> does not help."
>
>
>
>
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