If
you have some resisters around, try putting a 1000 ohm one across the meter
terminals and try again.
>>> "daveb" <daveb seanet com>
5/4/2004 7:26:20 PM >>>
really? maybe that explains why the my digital meter seems
schizophrenic at times. It wasn't damp at all when I was doing the
metering though, and I got a zero reading before hooking the pack up to the
harness. after hooking up to the harness I'd get just a little over 1v per
batt and a total of about 4.8v from all four. I don't think that could be
dust. could it?
thanks,
dave
--
Open WebMail Project (http://openwebmail.org)
---------- Original Message -----------
From: "Bob
Murcek" <rmurcek geisinger edu>
To: <daveb seanet com>
Cc:
<Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Sent: Mon, 03 May 2004 23:49:29 -0400
Subject: Re: (ET) PV powered ET more questions
> If you're using
a meter with really high input resistance, like a digital meter, it would take
nothing more than damp dust in the right place to get a voltage reading to the
frame....
>
> >>> "RJ Kanary"
<rjkanary nauticom net> 5/3/2004 9:32:54 PM >>>
>
Both the meters can go to ground, especially if
they have ever gotten
> wet. It would not pass much current, until
another item goes to ground, with
> the resultant arcing.
>
Other prime suspects are the armature contactors, {The bushings around
> the large terminals.} , the traction motor armature terminals, and that
> perennial favorite, the Delco® lift motor.
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "daveb" <daveb seanet com>
>
To: "Chris Zach" <czach computer org>; "Markus Lorch"
<mlorch vt edu>
> Cc: <Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> Sent: Monday, May 03, 2004 9:33 PM
> Subject: Re: (ET) PV
powered ET more questions
>
> > over the wkend I finally got
the chance to start the conversion of my E12S
> to
> > the
alltrax controller. I'm not nearly finished yet as I am taking this
> > opportunity to thoroughly check out the wiring for shorts, clean
things up
> > etc.
> >
> > so far I've removed and
re-installed the rear batteries after painting the
> > box and
installing the plastic battery bags from Bill G. Before I started
>
I
> > was getting 5v between the pack and the frame. with the
batteries cleaned
> up
> > in the new bags and connected
together but not to the wiring harness I
> read
> >
0volts. when connecting the cable that runs to the shunt I read 4.8v
> again.
> > Ok I reason even though I inspected the wires in
and out of the box
> something
> > is grounded but where.
So I get the bright of idea of using the ohm meter
> > but find
nothing! No continuity anywhere between the cable and the frame
>
and
> > yet I read 4.8v. How can that be? is it because my
ohm meter's battery
> is
> > only 9v, old and probably needs
replacing?
> >
> > The next time I'm at the farm I'll
disconnect the cable from the shunt and
> > measure voltage to the
frame and proceed downstream
> > disconnecting/checking/reconnecting
as I go.
> >
> > oh and I measure 15.8ohms across the
motor's field. is that within range?
> I
> > seem to
remember someone not long ago mentioned field resistance but I
> don't
> > remember what the correct amt was.
> >
> > any
other ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated.
> > thanks,
> > dave
> > seattle
> >
> > --
>
> Open WebMail Project (http://openwebmail.org)
> >
> >
> > ---------- Original Message -----------
>
> From: Chris Zach <czach computer org>
> > To: Markus Lorch
<mlorch vt edu>
> > Cc: Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
>
> Sent: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 22:25:25 -0400
> > Subject: Re: (ET) PV
powered ET more questions
> >
> > > Um no.
> >
>
> > > If the higher capacity batteries are in series with the
low capacity
> > > ones and you run the charger, what will happen?
Either you will boil
> > > and overcharge the lower ones to charge
up the higher ones, or you will
> > > never fully charge the higher
capacity batteries.
> > >
> > > The "right" solution
is a 36 volt inverter. If you're only going to use
> > > a little
bit of power, then a 24 volt (better) or a 12 volt could *do*.
> >
> However two of your batteries will be out of sync on charging, and
>
> > you'll still wind up overcharging some batteries on the pack to get
> > > everything back in sync.
> > >
> >
> Get a Trace DR3624. You'll have 3,600 watts of power, and it will
>
> > pull the pack down evenly. With that you should be able to run
anything.
> > > Chainsaw, etc.
> > >
> >
> Chris
> > >
> > > Markus Lorch wrote:
>
> >
> > > >>This is so I can use Solar PV to charge my
batteries,
> > > >>carry a small inverter on the ET to run a
small
> > > >>commercial inverter for string trimmers and
electric
> > > >>chain saws (Price Club/CostoCo had a nice
deal on
> > > >>1.75kw Xantrex inverters)
> > >
>>(and run the fridge, a radio and a couple of lights in
> >
> >>a pinch.) (There are a LOT of trees hanging over a LOT
>
> > >>of electric lines anywhere I drive, many more than
>
> > >>10-15 degrees past vertical)
> > > >
>
> > >
> > > > The previous owner of my E20 has put two
larger (higher capacity)
> > > > batteries in my elec-trak.
These drive the 12V components. I also
> > > > have a 300W
inverter hooked up (cheap $20) to which I connect my
> > > >
small electric trimmer. It worked fine all afternoon yesterday.
> >
> >
> > > > Maybe you can also have two batteries be
larger?
> > > >
> > > > see my other post on
chargers.
> > > >
> > > > Markus
> >
> >
> > > >
> > > >
_______________________________________________
> > > >
Elec-trak mailing list
> > > > Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> > > > https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> > >
Elec-trak mailing list
> > > Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> > > https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
> > ------- End of Original Message -------
> >
>
>
> > _______________________________________________
> >
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> > Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
>
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> >
>
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