Re: (ET) Elec-trak E12 beginnner needs advice

["David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <roden ald net>]

On 1 Apr 2004 at 14:10, John E. Baker wrote:

> Can I assume a
> newer_than_1983 used controller would be cheaper than trying to replace
> exactly what was under the dash?

Is it really a 1983?  I didn't know they made ETs that late.  Well, be 
that as it 
may ...

I may get some negative feedback for suggesting some of these, but if you 
have a fair bit of electrical knowhow, here are some possible 
alternatives: 

        - Get an Alltrax ET controller.  Best option, but may be beyond 
your 
budget in your current circumstances.   (Very sorry to hear about your job 
loss.  I'll bet you now look closely at everything you buy, to avoid items 
made 
in China.  I do too, FWIW.)

        - Get a used or rebuilt 36 volt Curtis golf car controller 
(~$125-200).  
May require separate field wiring if you have a wound field.  May also 
require 
a separate inductor in series with the armature to prevent jerky starts 
and/or 
possible failure of the controller from excessive current.  (Someone who's 
used a Curtis an an ET may be able to address these issues better than I 
can.)  You'll also need a 5K potentiometer to operate as a throttle 
control.  If 
you don't have a wound field on the motor, you'll also need to use the 
original 
ET contactors to reverse the tractor.

        - Retain the original resistors and contactors (if still present) 
but 
eliminate the circuit board.  This will require some re-engineering.  It 
will also 
remove some important safeguards, notably the ones which keep you from 
accelerating too abruptly, so think twice about it.

        - If you have access to some inexpensive surplus contactors 
capable 
of handling 200-300 amps, build a series-parallel controller using 18 and 
36 
volts, plus field control (assuming you have a field winding in your motor 
- if 
it's a permanent magnet type, this is not so practical).  Again this will 
probably defeat some important safety factors, so proceed with caution.

        - Find a rusted-out ET with good electricals, and marry the two.  
This 
may be the easiest, cheapest, and best answer.


> 
> I am guessing that this would be a place to start, but need all of your
> input: 1. Get schematic of motor from somewhere. 

You should be able to find something useful in the scanned microfiche 
manuals from elec-trak.org, though they're not easy to read thanks to age 
and wear.  Otherwise, you can look for a used Homeowner's Service Manual 
on Ebay, or buy one new from Bill Gunn.

2. Get motor tested
> somewhere (golf cart repair shop?) or learn how to test myself. 

If you have a field winding, apply 12 volts to it.  Appply 12 volts to the 
armature terminals.  Don't apply voltage to armature terminals without 
powering field terminals.  See if the motor runs.  Listen to determine 
whether 
it makes frightening noises.

If you're not sure of what you're doing, call up your local golf course 
and ask 
them who works on their golf cars' motors.

> 3. Decide  to use or replace motor. 

Replacement will most likely be expensive.

4. Get advise on what to do next.

Get a junk tractor - same model - for parts.

Others here will probably have some further thoughts.  Good luck!