I think you are right in using a modern controller in
this case. It may not be cheaper, but a lot easier. OTOH, maybe someone
doing a conversion wants to get rid of their original control circuit
- I think the brakes are always frozen on 'sitters' - the
brake pedal shaft goes thru a plain bushing on the chassis - kroil, heat, and
- No batteries is good - when they are left in they leak and
rot the sheet metal away. Get to know your local golf course cart shed, golf
cart repair place, or battery store and see about picking up some good used
batteries (~$20 or less each).
- No accessories are tough, but ask and keep
- Seat is easy and cheap - foam and remnents from the
- Too bad about gauges - a cheap voltmeter would be handy. The
other empty holes are probably the various switches - cheap.
- What's melted on the charger? I 'd be surpised if the
transformer is bad (anyone had one?). If it's ok then the rest of the charger is
cheap to fix.
- You can test the motor on 12V or if you get the charger
running, use that. If there is any noise, you probably should 'do' the bearings.
- Go to Elec-trak.org and pull the manuals for your model. The
first one in the list (under GE service manuals) has good troubleshooting and
- Get to know Bill Gunn for parts and advice.
- Keep asking questions.
- If you are strapped for a part let the list know. Someone
may have what you need.
Oh yeah, sorry 'bout the job - good luck with that
And where abouts are you?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2004 5:10
Subject: (ET) Elec-trak E12 beginnner
I have been given a 1983 E12 tractor. I would like to get it
here's the bad news:
1. The wires are all cut and some missing.
2. Circuit board is broken.
3. Lot's of empty holes on dash panel.
4. Has 2 gages, both broken.
5. No batteries.
6. Brake is frozen, by both rust and paint.
7. No accessories (like mower or plow)
8. Seat is a soggy mess.
9. The inboard charger & capacitor appears to be melted.
10. The front PTO motor is in unknown condition.
11. I am unemployed; my job went to China.
OK. Now the good news:
1. The body has minimal rust.
2. The main DC motor turns by hand with little noise.
3. The gearbox/transfer case seems to be OK (except for the brake
4. The wheels/ tires seem to be in good shape.
5. The steering wheel seems to be in good shape.
6. I have LOTS of free time at the moment.
I am interested in getting it working again, but not necessarily
"restoring" it, as this would probably cost more money. Can I assume a
newer_than_1983 used controller would be cheaper than trying to replace
exactly what was under the dash?
I am guessing that this would be a place to start, but need all of your
1. Get schematic of motor from somewhere.
2. Get motor tested somewhere (golf cart repair shop?) or learn how to
3. Decide to use or replace motor.
4. Get advise on what to do next.
Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu