(ET) more pullin stuff

[George3476 aol com]

stone boat pulling has a much different technique for starting as your 
using 
the granny/creeper gear,,,, when pulling a weight transfer sled you'll 
want a 
much higher gear depending on the track and what your engine/motor will 
pull 
without dying/stalling,,,most modified tractors pull higher than stock 
gear 
ratios in the trannys and/or install taller input reduction gear 
(overdrive) so 
that you can get up momentum as fast as possible before the weight box 
overthe 
pan stops you in your tracks,,,ALL hitches MUST be stationary, a half inch 
thick drawbar with an 1.5" hole with .750" thickness to rear edge of 
drawbar is 
normal..they maybe adjustable in height and or hook point length from the 
rear 
axle centerline ( in-out,up-down),, if it doesn't pull the front wheels 
then 
move the "hook point" reward an 1" or so at a time,if it does monster 
wheelies 
then move the "hook point" forward OR put weight on the nose,,the maximum 
hook 
point usually not to exceed a point with a straight edge over the crown of 
the rear edge of the tires,,,note that most garden tractors don't need to 
be 
anywhere near that point unless the front end is very heavy such as with a 
4 
cylinder automotive engine,,,some clubs have a maximum distance from the 
r.ax. 
center line.....rim width for a 23x10.5 tire should be 10.5-11" 
wide,,26x12 
should be 11" for AG tires and 12" wide for Pro tires, do NOT fill tires 
with 
anything other than AIR,,no center wheel weights either,,tire pressure of 
4-8 
lbs.,,,6 lbs. is a good number,,check often,,some cover their rear 
tires/fuel tanks 
with small blankets to shield them from the sun to maintain equal pressure 
in 
both tires and also to keep fuel cool...hey,,not a prob. for an EV.... 
Note,,if yer horse pulls to one side on a regular basis you can use 
staggered air 
pressure to help straighten her out,,, if it's pullin to the right put a 
few 
more lbs. in the right side tire to make it go to the left and/or sit in 
the seat 
favoring the right side...Movable weight placement is BEST located 
underneath 
the transaxle and just in front of the rear tires either side of the 
frame,,many use an adjustable weight boom on the front end to put the 
LEAST amount of 
weight the farthest point forward allowed for that class to balance the 
chassis thereby letting you keep as much ON the rear as possible,,weights 
can be 
hung behind the tractor but not usually exceeding 5" from rear tire 
crown,,but I 
feel it's much better to put in front of the rear tires...lowering the 
front 
end height a few inches helps too with dropped spindles or a custom axle 
or 
smaller front tires (narrow scooter tires or tri-ribs on front reduce 
rolling 
resistance),, it's a complicated theory about leverage and center of 
gravity that 
I have pictured in my mind's eye,,don't think I can adequately explain it 
though...the chassis is a balance beam with the rear axle being the 
fulcrum also 
affected by where the "hook point" is ,,, another tip is to make a keyhole 
shaped hole in the drawbar to keep the hook centered,, two holes (1 ea. at 
1.5") 
and a smaller hole (.750") halfway thru the back edge of the big 
hole..keyhole...more later...C ya..Geo