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Re: (ET) Landis controller vs. GE timer
One could also get three solar panels and rock that way. Even if you
only use small panels, you'd at least be able to keep the tractor peaked
My experience: With three 120 watt panels in series I was able to charge
the tractor to full in 2-3 days of sun. Way too fast honestly, so I
switched to the equivelent of three 60 watt panels. This can charge the
tractor in a week, and keeps the batteries always peaked and happy.
One could probably go with three 20 watt panels and keep the tractor on
a "trickle charge" with only a diode as a regulator. Then you use the
main chargr to recharge the batteries and the panels to keep it peaked.
Before anyone tries this, I should do the math since the batteries will
pretty much *always* be equalizing (12 volt panels can go to 18 volts at
full blast). However if current is low it might not gas much. Hm. Maybe
one could even use 3 10 watt panels; I wonder what the min would be to
keep them *peaked* You'd need to at least recover the min amount lost
due to self-discharge.
Jeremy Gagliardi com wrote:
There seems to be some merit in using *both* the Landis controller and the
built-in GE timer. However, as we learned not too long ago, keeping both
in parallel is a no-no, because the timer has 2 little wires providing it
and while the Landis controller is active, it can automatically activate
timer, causing an endless loop of charging.
So, I set out to find a way to keep both units hooked up but without the
"continuous charging" problem. I bought a radio shack 2-way switch that
handle 2 isolated circuits (i.e., 2 different inputs and outputs). This
allow the timer to be provided power on one side of the switch and the
controller provided power on the other side, but not both at the same
haven't hooked it up yet, because I noticed an anomoly from those 2 little
providing power to the timer switch.
I measured the voltage and it said 7.6V. Plus, no matter how I connected
red and black leads, it always read it as positive voltage (i.e., when I
reversed the leads it did not read negative). First, why is it 7.6V, and
second, why does it always read positive?
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