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RE: (ET) E12S and a Curtis controller??



Dave,
  When I read the specs on the CT2000 at
http://www.chargetek.com/ct2000.html, it says "Chargers one, two or three
batteries simultaneously while maintaining complete isolation. Eliminates
the need for run/charge switches & the need to remove series jumper to
charge your batteries".  And they say these charges are good for golf
carts - and they use the same typical 6-in-series configuration as the ET.
Sounds like you found a winner.  Just be careful to make the connections
across pairs as they're wired in the ET.

Good find!

--joe

-----Original Message-----
From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
[mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu]On Behalf Of Dave &
Debbie Barden
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 3:21 PM
To: hazen indiana edu; agp vt edu; elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: RE: (ET) E12S and a Curtis controller??


my new chargetek charger, the one that charges 3 12v batts, came in the 
mail
yesterday.  My friend Craig has his doubts that it will work the way I 
think
it
will.  That is NOT having to split the pack into 3 pairs of 6volt batts.  I
didn't ask but it sure sounds to me as though this charger does NOT have a
common negative rather 3 separate negatives.  Craig's point was that if I
don't
split the pack and the charger uses a common ground I have  an immediate
dead
short.  Anybody out there know for sure.

this discussion about motors and controllers has indeed been informative.

dave
Seattle

> I agree good discussion! IF the motors will take the extra voltage and
> it sounds like they will then taking out the charger and replacing it
> with a 6 volt battery sounds like the way to go. If you do not want nor
> need the extra voltage just leave it the way it is. Using a modern
> controller will make the number of connections less and we can use
> larger wire and better connectors than the factory did. The bottom line
> is we may not need the extra battery to make up for all the voltage drop
> in the old system. Has anyone put a voltmeter on the motor connectors
> and driven up a hill to see how much it drops under load? My guess is a
> lot. Even on cold days the wire bundles gat warm and the contactor
> cabinet is warm, heat is loss. The voltage at the motor is what makes it
> go not the voltage at the battery terminals.
>
> It will be good to have a controller that we can program to set the
> acceleration and deceleration! This is going to be fun!
>
> The 36 volt battery charger that charges three 12 volts battery systems
> looks interesting. My E20 wants one!
>
> Steve, yes we need cruise control!
>
>  Dwight
>
> Dwight L. Hazen, Indiana University, UITS
>
> Bloomington, In. 47408-7378
>
> 812-855-5367 IP phone 317-278-4014
>
> hazen indiana edu http://php.ucs.indiana.edu/~hazen/
>
> Ham Radio wb9tlh arrl net http://wb9tlh.ampr.us
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Poush [mailto:agp vt edu]
> Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 10:33 PM
> To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> Subject: Re: (ET) E12S and a curtis controller??
>
> Wow.  I am really pleased with the discussion that spun off my email.
>
> David Roden is pretty accurate in what he says about Mark Hanson's
> modifications.  I should know because I own one of the two E-15s Mark
> modified.  And I did my graduate studies in DC-DC power conversion and
> motor control.  Mark did use two identical controllers, one for the
> drive and one for the PTO.  The battery pack is 48V and the accessories
> are tapped off the pack.  I can put the tractor in any gear, vary the
> speed command so that any voltage from 0 to 48V is applied, and it is
> efficient and smooth.  I never need to change gears while I mow.  I can
> throttle down and switch to reverse in a blink, even if the tractor is
> not quite at rest.  I never use the foot brake while mowing since the
> reverse is so handy.  But my top speed is 4 mph whereas before the
> modifications it would have been 10 mph.  I don't really NEED the speed
> for mowing and snow-plowing.  I just want it for the fun of giving my
> daughter faster rides.
>
> David did say that he would trust that since Mark put a second
> controller on the PTO that it must indicate that running the mower deck
> at 48V is too risky to attempt.  In fact, Mark told me just the
> opposite.  The mower motors can be run at higher voltage with little or
> no risk.  I generally run them at 36V but crank them up when the grass
> gets very thick.  I have run them that way for over a year and never
> tripped the thermal overload or gotten the motors hot enough that I
> couldn't hold my hand on any one of them indefinitely.  This E-15 is a
> great ride and I only look forward to it getting better if this kit
> Steve's company is developing can be made affordable.
>
> One more feature I would like to see on a controller for the ET is
> cruise control.  The ability to set a cruise speed and then reduce
> speed (or even reverse direction) for maneuvering around obstacles and
> then resume the preset speed would be very useful to me.  Currently, I
> can set a speed but cannot resume it after changing speed.  The speed
> command input to the controller is a slider potentiometer next to the
> forward/reverse switch (rather than a foot pedal).  I am not sure that
> a foot pedal is compatible with implementing a cruise control cost
> effectively.  What do you think, Steve?  Is cruise control a
> possibility?
>
> Andy
>
> PS - I will never go back to a 36V battery pack.
>
>
>
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>





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