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RE: (ET) E12S and a Curtis controller??
Dave,
Just connect the six wires to the battery pack. I was reading the web
site and if you have a 24 or 12 volt system you still connect the six
wires. Its like three chargers in one case as I understand it. The three
chargers put out 20 amps total in any voltage configuration. That is why
you have to connect the six wires for 12, 24 or 36 volt. Please correct
me if you find this to be incorrect.
http://www.4unique.com/battery/chargetek/chargetek_2000.htm
3 Fully Isolated Outputs Charges one, two, or three batteries
simultaneously while maintaining complete isolation. Eliminates the need
for run/charge switches and the need to remove series jumpers to charge
your batteries
Dwight L. Hazen, Indiana University, UITS
Bloomington, In. 47408-7378
812-855-5367 IP phone 317-278-4014
hazen indiana edu http://php.ucs.indiana.edu/~hazen/
Ham Radio wb9tlh arrl net http://wb9tlh.ampr.us
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave & Debbie Barden [mailto:daveb seanet com]
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 4:21 PM
To: Hazen, Dwight L; agp vt edu; elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: RE: (ET) E12S and a Curtis controller??
my new chargetek charger, the one that charges 3 12v batts, came in the
mail
yesterday. My friend Craig has his doubts that it will work the way I
think it
will. That is NOT having to split the pack into 3 pairs of 6volt batts.
I
didn't ask but it sure sounds to me as though this charger does NOT have
a
common negative rather 3 separate negatives. Craig's point was that if
I don't
split the pack and the charger uses a common ground I have an immediate
dead
short. Anybody out there know for sure.
this discussion about motors and controllers has indeed been
informative.
dave
Seattle
> I agree good discussion! IF the motors will take the extra voltage and
> it sounds like they will then taking out the charger and replacing it
> with a 6 volt battery sounds like the way to go. If you do not want
nor
> need the extra voltage just leave it the way it is. Using a modern
> controller will make the number of connections less and we can use
> larger wire and better connectors than the factory did. The bottom
line
> is we may not need the extra battery to make up for all the voltage
drop
> in the old system. Has anyone put a voltmeter on the motor connectors
> and driven up a hill to see how much it drops under load? My guess is
a
> lot. Even on cold days the wire bundles gat warm and the contactor
> cabinet is warm, heat is loss. The voltage at the motor is what makes
it
> go not the voltage at the battery terminals.
>
> It will be good to have a controller that we can program to set the
> acceleration and deceleration! This is going to be fun!
>
> The 36 volt battery charger that charges three 12 volts battery
systems
> looks interesting. My E20 wants one!
>
> Steve, yes we need cruise control!
>
> Dwight
>
> Dwight L. Hazen, Indiana University, UITS
>
> Bloomington, In. 47408-7378
>
> 812-855-5367 IP phone 317-278-4014
>
> hazen indiana edu http://php.ucs.indiana.edu/~hazen/
>
> Ham Radio wb9tlh arrl net http://wb9tlh.ampr.us
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Poush [mailto:agp vt edu]
> Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 10:33 PM
> To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> Subject: Re: (ET) E12S and a curtis controller??
>
> Wow. I am really pleased with the discussion that spun off my email.
>
> David Roden is pretty accurate in what he says about Mark Hanson's
> modifications. I should know because I own one of the two E-15s Mark
> modified. And I did my graduate studies in DC-DC power conversion and
> motor control. Mark did use two identical controllers, one for the
> drive and one for the PTO. The battery pack is 48V and the
accessories
> are tapped off the pack. I can put the tractor in any gear, vary the
> speed command so that any voltage from 0 to 48V is applied, and it is
> efficient and smooth. I never need to change gears while I mow. I
can
> throttle down and switch to reverse in a blink, even if the tractor is
> not quite at rest. I never use the foot brake while mowing since the
> reverse is so handy. But my top speed is 4 mph whereas before the
> modifications it would have been 10 mph. I don't really NEED the
speed
> for mowing and snow-plowing. I just want it for the fun of giving my
> daughter faster rides.
>
> David did say that he would trust that since Mark put a second
> controller on the PTO that it must indicate that running the mower
deck
> at 48V is too risky to attempt. In fact, Mark told me just the
> opposite. The mower motors can be run at higher voltage with little
or
> no risk. I generally run them at 36V but crank them up when the grass
> gets very thick. I have run them that way for over a year and never
> tripped the thermal overload or gotten the motors hot enough that I
> couldn't hold my hand on any one of them indefinitely. This E-15 is a
> great ride and I only look forward to it getting better if this kit
> Steve's company is developing can be made affordable.
>
> One more feature I would like to see on a controller for the ET is
> cruise control. The ability to set a cruise speed and then reduce
> speed (or even reverse direction) for maneuvering around obstacles and
> then resume the preset speed would be very useful to me. Currently, I
> can set a speed but cannot resume it after changing speed. The speed
> command input to the controller is a slider potentiometer next to the
> forward/reverse switch (rather than a foot pedal). I am not sure that
> a foot pedal is compatible with implementing a cruise control cost
> effectively. What do you think, Steve? Is cruise control a
> possibility?
>
> Andy
>
> PS - I will never go back to a 36V battery pack.
>
>
>
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