Re: (ET) Newbee to E Traking

["SteveS" <ssawtelle fcc net>]

Welcome aboard Bob!

To answer your questions:

>  Can I power it up for testing with 3 12 volt batteries?

- basically, yes (and no) The only real problem is the front lift runs off
18V tapped from the 'bottom' (most negative) and middle of the 6-6V pack.
For testing I would run it to 12V since it is a GM power window motor.
Running it on 24V shortens it's life.

> Do the relays, solenoids run on 12 or 36 volt?

- 36V

> Seems there is a 12 volt tap off for the lights?

- yes -

> After blowing all the critter nests and mice out of the electrical box,

- common problem!

> it looks like things are clean enough to actually run?

- worth  a try - just be cautious. Common problems with one that that's 
been
sitting:
1. The three 3AG fuses (under front hood on upper 'firewall') are usually
loose or missing or corroded
2. The connections to the control board (behind the upper 'firewall') may 
be
corroded or loose
3. The connections to the reverse relay (also behind the upper  'firewall')
may be loose, weak, or corroded
4. Disconnect switch may be corroded and will drop a few volts

> Wiring looks to be in good shape. Hooked up one 12
> volt in front and 2 in back, 24 volts. Of course the wires arent marked,
> THAT would take the sport out of it?

- Most of the wires (originally) were marked. Small white numbers near the
connections.

> Nothin"! So far Hoping to make it move
> before I go into sheet metal restoration mode. Easy to do that, nice
simple
> body design. A few new front tires and away it should go? Do people fix 
> up
> the old power circuits or just go to a solid state controller.?

- A continuing, interesting discussion - each has it's merits.

>
>     Electrically
>
>     Bob

- Enjoy!!!

SteveS
E12Ss
E20