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(ET) E20 motor stud getting extremely hot.
- Subject: (ET) E20 motor stud getting extremely hot.
- From: Don Cohen <bond007d netsync net>
- Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 13:47:15 -0400
- Delivery-date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 14:03:54 -0400
- Envelope-to: elec-trak-outgoing cosmos phy tufts edu
- In-reply-to: <438D25329C6CCE4086C1E729DD7097F69C3CE6@iu-mssg-mbx06.excha nge.iu.edu>
- Sender: owner-elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Model #26AE20ED
Hello all,
I have been following this group since 1999. Since I haven't had many
problems, I haven't posted in a while. I have a problem now, and need
some advice. For about a year or so, now, I have noticed a loss of power
from the ET. It can't go near as fast as it used to in D2, and the power
use gauge tends to move up into the red area much faster than it should
when tractor is under load and pedal is down too far. The batteries were
new from Sams Club in the summer of 1999. They charge up just fine and
have no trouble holding the about the same charge. A few days ago, I was
poking around trying to find some answers and noticed that the A1 stud
(red #8 wire) on the traction motor was too hot too touch after only
driving the tractor a few hundred feet in D1, which included going up one
approximately, very short 35 degree incline. The stud felt loose at the
motor (wire itself seemed tight), so I went to the trouble of removing the
motor and inspecting the brush area where the stud is mounted. Everything
looked OK inside. No evidence of scoring or overheating at all. The
brushes and bearing were just replaced last year. The bottom of the stud
where the brush connector screws to was a little less than shiny, so I
cleaned that up - but it really didn't look that bad. Screw that holds
the spade connector against the bottom of bolt was fairly tight. The
insulator on the stud was intact as far as I could tell. The bottom nut
that rests on the square black insulating pad seemed to be rusted on, as I
couldn't remove it. I put everything back together and replaced the ring
terminal on the red wire which was heat fatigued back about an inch.
Tried the tractor again, and the same problem is there, although it seems
to get SLIGHTLY less hot as compared to the same use time before. The heat
buildup is only at the stud and ring terminal. The wire itself and the
terminal at the 2A contactor only seems to be very slightly warm, if at
all. I did notice that the 2 terminals at the bottom of the R-contactor
get quite hot also.
Has anyone seen this kind of behavior? Can someone take their E20 for a
short run of a minute or so, with light to moderate load in say D1 or D2
and then check the red power wire on the motor stud to see how hot it
gets? Also, check the bottom studs at the R-contactor to see if they heat
up as well, and how much.
I am suspecting that the motor stud itself may be bad, possibly at the
place where that bottom nut is stuck on, and acting like a resistor. At
any rate, there seems to be a lot of voltage dropped at that point for it
to be heating up so. I wonder if between that, and the apparent abnormal
heating at the 2A contactor, that those are causing my poor performance?
Any ideas that anyone has as to what may be causing this will be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks,
Don C.
Shinglehouse, PA