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Marty - you've done better troubleshooting than many engineers
would do; you've actually ruled out a bunch of stuff.
So far we know:
1. The batteries are good (enough)
2. The disconnect and basic wiring is good.
3. The safety disconnects are ok
4. The motor is not frozen or dead
When you put 12V across the motor, was the ET switched on and
the throttle engaged? I would think it would have to be in order to have field
voltage (I assume the 12V was put across the armature). If the field windings were open you would get a huge current draw when
you engage the throttle (as I recall), which appears not to be the case - so I
guess the field circuit is good. The main contactor (L) is
probably good as it supplies to the lift.
I'm led to believe the armature circuit is open. Most likely
(as suggested by others) is an open/bad connection.
Remove the large panel below the 'dash'. The contactors are arranged in
line along the left. Top is 'L' , then 'A1' then 'A2'. Power comes in to the
left side of 'L' exits the right side then down to right side of '1A', exits the
left side, down to left side of '2A' exits the right side and then opn to the
motor. With throttle on you should see 36V or so at that point. If not, go back
up the chain to see why. If yes, then see if you have 36V at the motor. If so,
then wiring is good up to there. Check other amature connector on motor. If 36V
is there then you have an open from there to the minus side of the battery
stack. BTW there is a breaker on the motor which should be normally closed (no
voltage across it).
Be careful measuring things with power on - you don't want to jiggle a wire
that complete the circuit and run over yourself! Just be sure you are not in
gear (or better still - remove the belt).
- SteveS
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