[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: (ET) advice on rear battery box and fenders
- Subject: Re: (ET) advice on rear battery box and fenders
- From: "SteveS" <ssawtelle fcc net>
- Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 09:13:56 -0400
- References: <se93c9d4 018 RIPLEY>
- Sender: owner-elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
At $70, buy it from Bill - I made mine since I was taking a welding class,
but that's a good price and supports our parts man.
I like the bolt-together idea. You could drill out the spots and use the
holes for your bolts. Be nice to pull the fenders off once in a while for
cleaning, or for the next battery box in 2033 ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Barry" <Don Barry kirbycorp com>
To: <>; <dervatl yahoo com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: (ET) advice on rear battery box and fenders
> Bill doesn't have the fenders anymore, or at least didn't have any a year
ago when I asked.
> I did get a new battery box from Bill. Cost was around $70. Excellent
quality, one of the best things I got from him. I bolted my Batt box down
instead of using pop rivets - I used SS 5/16 Buton-head bolts.
> Getting the fenders off is a PAIN. It's do-able if you sacrfice the batt
box. I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel on it, kept most of the damage to
the old batt box.
> When I attached the fenders to the new batt box, once again the button
head cap bolt were used. I pulled the fenders off as part of spring
cleaning.. it's amazing how much crap gets down in there!
> Restored E-15
> >>> D Howell <dervatl yahoo com> 04/08/03 08:00PM >>>
> Advice please guys!
> I pulled my rear battery box tonight to do a through
> job of cleaning/repairing. It's certainly repairable,
> although I'm thinking it might be cheaper to buy a new
> one rather than put in a whole weekend of repairing.
> There are only 3 or 4 small holes in the box (near the
> top of the batteries) but the thing that concerns me
> most is the place where the front panel meets the
> wrap-a-round side and rear. This seam/joint (which
> appears spot welded to the sides) has corrision under
> And then there are the holes where the aluminum rivets
> went through near the base. They have enlarged
> slightly and weakened around them due to corrosion
> around the rivet. This piece appears to be simple to
> manufactur, so I wouldn't think it would be very
> expensive. Others have said that the fenders are a
> real pain to get off, so go ahead and get both from
> Anyone have a vague idea what they cost?