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I was about to write a post suggesting this, so I'll just
second this one - silicone spray (I use a Dow product in a tall yellow can
- walmart) will make anything snow related slippery for a while - shovels,
sleds, etc. I groom x-c ski trails, and that's how I prevent the bottom of
the drag from collecting ice. I routinely use it on my gas powered snow
blower with good results. You must use it before each session since it wears off
fairly rapidly. It works well on plastic and metal.
In addition, there are special slippery paints advertised for
snowplow blades - try a snowplow blade dealer in your area. These
paints are (alleged) more slippery than regular paint.
I would not use a rubber product like the paint on bed liner
material. It would probably give some protection against rust and perhaps
wear better than paint, but I think wet snow might well stick to it and
actually compound the problem you are having.
In any case, wet snow is a problem for all sorts of
devices!
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 7:07
AM
Subject: Re: (ET) Snow!
The best thing I found when I was using mine, years ago, was silicone
spray! Use it generously on the chute where it pivots/rotates,
also. Let it dry for a few minutes before using. It's better than
nothing even wet, however! The ET thrower handled wet snow much better than a
two stage. I have a two stage on a Gravely, and if it gets wet, you are
always digging it out of the chute and the 2nd stage input opening. The
higher air volume freezes it to these areas.
Gary Woodard
Kenton, OH
rajrajan001 attbi com wrote:
David,
I
just did 6-8" heavy wet snow in North Andover, MA last weekend with
reasonable success. I had to unclog the chute 6-8 times while doing our
250'
driveway.
Best snowthower performance comes with a slick
surface anywhere the snow might
touch. Of course this is very hard with
our old slightly rusty machines with
flat worn paint. As a group member
(remind me who)suggested to me, rubbing
parrafin wax (at grochery or
hardware store)all over all the surfaces before
each use gives some
slickness to help. Watch out because there are many sharp
edges to mash
your knuckles on, best to use thick gloves and do it carefully.
The
best solution would be to sand blast the rust spots and prime and paint the
whole inside of the unit, but this is alot of work. I am thinking about
doing
this next summer. The same approach (new paint) will make! the
lawnmower decks
less likely to get grass clogged and stuck to the deck
and makes it easy to
clean out. Does anyone recommend a really good
paint for these severe dutys?
Also, running with a good charge for
maximum motor power helps. I have found
it is best not to stop and start
many times to prevent clogging. Go at it as
continuously as possible.
Also, make sure you are eating enough snow at a
time, obviously also not
letting the ampmeter go beyond the high scale. I also
found this to
help. Lastly, getting the chain (and chain&belt if the 36-38"
version)snug and well oiled, and maybe replaced if worn will
help.
James
> On 3 Feb 2003 at 7:21, Rob Brockway
wrote:
>
> > The snow blower however is somewhat limited
...
>
> I found this to be the case too. The blade works better
for me.
>
> But others have reported the opposite. This leads
me to believe that either
> there's ! some variation in the snow
throwers, or some wear mechanism that
> makes some of them perform
below par, or perhaps both.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron,
Ohio, USA
> 1991 Solectria Force 144vac
> 1991 Ford Escort
Green/EV 128vdc
> 1970 GE Elec-trak E15 36vdc
> 1974 Avco New
Idea 36vdc
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