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I don't know
what your soil is or how many weeds, nor do I have a manual,
but...
I am guessing
you are VERY deep. The dog-chain is the depth control. Tilling
deeper than 5" on the first pass is very hard on everything. Set the chain
in the link on the lift so that the blades are only going in about 4" when the
chain goes taut.
The bar
(tool-bar) attaches to the axle and the hitch. There are two holes on each
side at the hitch. Here is what Geoff Rich told me last
year:"
Note: I have the Wheel Horse version, but I believe that they are identical. Shields: I recall Bill Gunn mentioning that some shields were available (and I believe that he may have some). However, he recommended that at least the side shields be left off, so that rocks encountered by the tiller could be thrown out, rather than being recirculated within the tines and possibly damaging them or the lower chain housing. He said just make sure that persons, pets. etc. are out of the area. (A good idea for mowing, also!) We didn't discuss rear shields specifically, but as you say there are a bunch of square holes along the back flange for mounting something there. Tool bar: The manual mentions that the two positions of the tool bar control the "aggressiveness" of the tiller. I believe that the upper position is the more "aggressive" (manual's lingo, not mine). I guess the thought is that the angle of attack is steeper if the hinge point (i.e. tool bar) is higher. The manual recommends the upper position for tilling ground not previously turned over, and the lower setting for tilling soil that has been worked before. Also, the best setting may be affected by soil type, moisture content, etc. Back spring: This is used to set the tension on the drive belt. As you compress it, the first chain drive (i.e. the exposed one) rotates up and puts tension on the drive belt going from the motor to the large sheave. To properly adjust the tension, you're supposed to compress the spring to a certain length (don't have the length in my head, though). I think it's something like 3 3/4", but I will check on this. To adjust tension on the first chain drive, you loosen the two big nuts/bolts on the side of it (3/4" bolts, maybe?) and adjust for proper chain deflection. I think it's 5/8" of deflection with something like 10lbs of force on the chain. I will check this also. To adjust tension on the second chain (hidden in the lower housing), there's a allen-head screw on the "front" (with respect to tractor travel direction) of the chain housing which pushes on an internal tensioner. On this one you're just supposed to turn it in until you don't feel any slack when you try to rotate the tines by hand. Then the manual says either stake the threads or use Loctite. Contrary to popular belief, the second chain drive doesn't operate in an oil bath. Just a few drops of oil in the oil cup are all that the manual calls for, and this is only in the spring or after several heavy uses. I hope this helps. I will consult the manual and give better info soon. Bill does have both the owner's manual and the maintenance manual with parts diagrams and procedures, if you want to read the real thing.
Geoffrey Rich " I have never tilled in the 'red' section of the power meter. I have tilled until it shut off or when I smelled the belt. Larry Elie
-----Original Message-----
From: goodguyforsure [mailto:goodguyforsure hotmail com] Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 12:16 PM To: E-trak Write Subject: Re: (ET) tiller motor temperature Ok, now I got questions...
I am tilling with an I-5, in LL. I get into the red
zone alot. Is this a problem? and if so how do I control that.
Draw bar raised?...The draw bar attaches to the
axle and then to the tractor hitch. At that point there are two holes. Are you
telling me to put it in the upper hole for cultivating and in the lower hole for
tilling? How long should I be able to till with
new fully charged batteries?
thanks
John Briese
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