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RE: (ET) tiller motor temperature



I don't know what your soil is or how many weeds, nor do I have a manual, but...
 
I am guessing you are VERY deep.  The dog-chain is the depth control.  Tilling deeper than 5" on the first pass is very hard on everything.  Set the chain in the link on the lift so that the blades are only going in about 4" when the chain goes taut.
 
The bar (tool-bar) attaches to the axle and the hitch.  There are two holes on each side at the hitch.  Here is what Geoff Rich told me last year:"
 

Note: I have the Wheel Horse version, but I believe that they are identical.

Shields: I recall Bill Gunn mentioning that some shields were available (and

I believe that he may have some). However, he recommended that at least the

side shields be left off, so that rocks encountered by the tiller could be

thrown out, rather than being recirculated within the tines and possibly

damaging them or the lower chain housing. He said just make sure that

persons, pets. etc. are out of the area. (A good idea for mowing, also!) We

didn't discuss rear shields specifically, but as you say there are a bunch

of square holes along the back flange for mounting something there.

Tool bar: The manual mentions that the two positions of the tool bar control

the "aggressiveness" of the tiller. I believe that the upper position is

the more "aggressive" (manual's lingo, not mine). I guess the thought is

that the angle of attack is steeper if the hinge point (i.e. tool bar) is

higher. The manual recommends the upper position for tilling ground not

previously turned over, and the lower setting for tilling soil that has been

worked before. Also, the best setting may be affected by soil type,

moisture content, etc.

Back spring: This is used to set the tension on the drive belt. As you

compress it, the first chain drive (i.e. the exposed one) rotates up and

puts tension on the drive belt going from the motor to the large sheave. To

properly adjust the tension, you're supposed to compress the spring to a

certain length (don't have the length in my head, though). I think it's

something like 3 3/4", but I will check on this.

To adjust tension on the first chain drive, you loosen the two big

nuts/bolts on the side of it (3/4" bolts, maybe?) and adjust for proper

chain deflection. I think it's 5/8" of deflection with something like 10lbs

of force on the chain. I will check this also. To adjust tension on the

second chain (hidden in the lower housing), there's a allen-head screw on

the "front" (with respect to tractor travel direction) of the chain housing

which pushes on an internal tensioner. On this one you're just supposed to

turn it in until you don't feel any slack when you try to rotate the tines

by hand. Then the manual says either stake the threads or use Loctite.

Contrary to popular belief, the second chain drive doesn't operate in an oil

bath. Just a few drops of oil in the oil cup are all that the manual calls

for, and this is only in the spring or after several heavy uses.

I hope this helps. I will consult the manual and give better info soon.

Bill does have both the owner's manual and the maintenance manual with parts

diagrams and procedures, if you want to read the real thing.

 

Geoffrey Rich

"

I have never tilled in the 'red' section of the power meter.  I have tilled until it shut off or when I smelled the belt.

Larry Elie

 

 
-----Original Message-----
From: goodguyforsure [mailto:goodguyforsure hotmail com]
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 12:16 PM
To: E-trak Write
Subject: Re: (ET) tiller motor temperature

Ok, now  I got questions...
I am tilling with an I-5, in LL. I get into the red zone alot. Is this a problem? and if so how do I control that.
Draw bar raised?...The draw bar attaches to the axle and then to the tractor hitch. At that point there are two holes. Are you telling me to put it in the upper hole for cultivating and in the lower hole for tilling? How long should I be able to till with new fully charged batteries?
thanks
John Briese
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 9:43 AM
Subject: RE: (ET) tiller motor temperature

Steve, Neil, John;
 
I till.  Lots.  1/2 acre of raspberries, 1.5 acres strawberries, 1/2 acre garden.  Sandy soil.
 
When the hitch is RAISED at the drawbar, the tilling is "aggressive", when down it is "cultivating".  Use the chain to set the lowest depth; don't make the tiller bounce too much.  Untwist and remove weeds at the end of each row.  The motor WILL run hot.  It has a thermal shut off; if it overheats (rare for me) let it cool for 10 minutes, then depress HARD the interlock.  I till deep as slow as the tractor goes; I cultivate slow in L.  That's the main reason I'm going to an E-15; slow is slower.  The current may go into the yellow, but not as often as with the snow blower.  I never see yellow unless I'm over 4.5" deep and have weeds collected on the blades.  I have worked with other tillers (Troy-Built, Sears, Ariens, Siemens) for years, and the bolts on the tiller blades are wrong.  They should have used carriage bolts and short, low-profile nuts or better yet; dedicated plow-bolts.  The blade design is good but there is too much bolt drag and weed collection area on their bolts.  I intend to come up with better bolts later this season.
 
Larry Elie
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Naugler [mailto:snaugler earthlink net]
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 10:47 PM
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: (ET) tiller motor temperature

John and others,
 
The GE motors aren't labeled, but I'd assume they have a temperature rating the same as industrial motors.  Most industrial motors are rated for a 40 deg C (72 deg F) temperature rise.  Industrial motors can frequently be much too hot to touch when heavily loaded.
 
I believe that tillers when performing normal tilling are expected to move the power meter well into the yellow zone, unlike the mower deck where you should stay in the green.  I don't have a tiller, but my snow blower manual specifically states that the power meter should be in the yellow zone.
 
Hope this helps,
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 9:48 PM
Subject: (ET) tiller

Just finished using a tiller for 1-1/2 hours in hard packed sod.  Motor is too hot to touch. Is this normal?
I am thinking about tilling up close to an acre with this. Is that insane?
John Briese