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Re: (ET) Mower motor bearing replacement
- Subject: Re: (ET) Mower motor bearing replacement
- From: "Steven Naugler" <snaugler earthlink net>
- Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 21:36:22 -0400
- References: <200206051438.g55EcAD17517@dymwsm10.mailwatch.com>
- Reply-to: "Steven Naugler" <snaugler earthlink net>
- Sender: owner-elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Larry and others, concerning motor bearings,
For the large frame traction motors I recommend using a 6205-2RS on the
large end and a 6203-2RS on the small end.
For the 3-1/2 inch diameter mower deck motors I recommend using a 6204-2RS
on the large end and a 6201-2RS on the small end.
I don't have bearing sizes for any other motors, but I will tell you how to
find them out in a moment.
All of the GE tractor motors use the 62XX series light metric bearings,
which are an industry standard available in many brands from many sources.
XX designates the particular size within the 6200 series.
First, open bearings vs. shields vs. seals. I recommend using 2 seals on
our electric tractor motors because they are better than seals at keeping
grease in long term. All of the motors I rebuilt had 2 shields. Shields,
being metal instead of rubber, might theoretically last longer due to ozone
resistance, but I have found that seals do better for me so I always use
them in place of shields.
To get 1 shield, leaving one side of the motor open, add a "-S" to the end
of the bearing designator. To get 2 shields add a "-2S" to the end of a
bearing designator.
To get 1 seal, or rubber seal, add a "-RS", to get 2 seals add "-2RS".
So for a 6205 bearing for the large end of a traction motor you could come
up with these part numbers"
a. open bearing on both sides 6205
b. 1 shield, open on the other side 6205-S
c. 2 shields 6205-2S
d. 1 seal, open on one side 6205-RS
e. 2 seals 6205-2RS
If you cannot get seals, but have a shielded bearing in hand, I'd use it.
Seals are the best, but shields are OK, especially on the small end of the
motors where moisture exposure is less likely.
Now sizes, or at least the sizes we might use in our tractors: (A 6205 is
the biggest I know about in out motors.
Perhaps the transmissions use something larger than the 6205.)
bearing designator ID in mm OD in mm Width
in mm
6200 10 30
9
6201 12 32
10
6202 15 35
11
6203 17 40
12
6204 20 47
14
6205 25 52
15
6206 30 62
16
6207 35 72
17
6208 40 80
18
6209 45 85
19
6210 50 90
20
The sizing of the 6203 and smaller is arbitrary. For 6204 and above there
is a pattern.
Multiply the XX in a 62XX by 5 to get the ID. A 6207 has an ID of 35 mm.
Add the XX in a 62XX to 10 mm to get the Width. A 6205 has a Width of 15
mm.
So to size your bearings measure them to the nearest whole mm and use the
above chart for sizing. For longetivity order the sealed bearings which
will have a part number like 62XX-2RS.
Steve Naugler
snaugler earthlink net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elie, Larry (L.D.)" <lelie ford com>
To: "'Steven Naugler'" <snaugler earthlink net>;
<elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 10:09 AM
Subject: RE: (ET) Mower motor bearing replacement
> I thought I had kept the bearing numbers for the original bearings, as
well as some much improved, full sealed bearings. I can't find them. Does
anyone have the actual bearing numbers for the 4.5" dia motors handy? I
need to re-cross reference them.
>
> Larry Elie
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steven Naugler [mailto:snaugler earthlink net]
> Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 3:07 PM
> To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> Subject: Re: (ET) Mower motor bearing replacement
>
>
> I have done this technique of using a bolt screwed into the end of the
motor
> shaft on 6 small diameter motors and 3 large diameter motors. If a few
> cases the flange came off very easily, but most of the time I used a
> press
> because I had one available.
>
> If you don't have a press you can use a wheel puller so long as you do
> the
> following two things:
>
> 1. Pull on the small diameter portion of the blade flange assembly. If
you
> pull on the larger diameter flange itself you could bend it. If bent it
is
> unlikely you could straighten it out enough that your mower blade will
> run
> true. You may need a split bearing puller to reach around the flange.
>
> 2. Make sure that the screw of your puller stays on the bolt. Being
> careful may be enough, but why don't you use a center punch and put a
dimple
> in the center of the head of the bolt. This way the little nib on the
> end
> of your puller screw will have something to keep it centered on the bolt.
>
> Steve Naugler
> snaugler earthlink net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Oasis654 aol com>
> To: <tcoate coate org>; <owner-elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>;
> <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 12:32 PM
> Subject: Re: (ET) Mower motor bearing replacement
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 5/18/02 11:24:28 PM, tcoate coate org wrote:
> >
> > << want to change the bearings on a large style mower motor. In order
to
> do
> > that, you need to pull off the flange gadget at the end of the shaft
where
> > the blade attaches. Is there some trick that I'm missing in order to
> doing
> > that?
> >
> > I put a bearing separator under the flange and pulled about as hard as
> > I
> > dared with a good size puller. the thing didn't budge at all. Is
> > there
> > any sort of key down in the slot on the shaft that needs to come out
> > first? If so, how? Or is it likely to be rust? And if it is, is
> > there
> > anything I can do about that?
> > >>
> >
> > hi folks, the problem may be that you're trying to pull and push on the
> blade
> > flange at the same time. you have to put a strong bolt into the flange
> hole
> > where you'd normally bolt on the blade. then by pushing on the bolt,
and
> > pulling on the blade flange, it should come off. i've only seen this
done
> > with a press.
> > good luck, jon k albany, ny
> >
>