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Re:(ET) Capacitor replacement]

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Thanks Rhett (and everyone else) for the tip on the caps. The price is
great at http://www.candhsales.com, but the min is 30.00 so I think I
may call Bill  although I should get some spares having gone thru 4 at
one shot. The aluminum can does deteriorate from grass clippings, etc. I
finally used a newer one from a portable late model ET charger that I
don't use.

I ended up taking apart the disconnect and shimming the 2 contact bolts
with the rings cut off of yellow (10 gauge) connectors, split so as to
slip over the bolt shank. The former loose fitting disconnect cost me a
transformer as well as the 4 caps. (I finally contributed the losses all
to the loose connection in the disconnect, so take heed!) Fortunately I
have an ET junkyard of my own to draw off. I should mention that this ET
(145 WH) was in very "new" condition so this could happen to any ET. The
switch looked new out of the box, just poorly set up at the factory.
When I got done it made a good solid, no nonsense connection.

I don't think I recall anyone making the point about the dangers to the
charger if the disconnect is off (or flaky as in this case). A car
charger i.e. couldn't care less if the connection to the batteries were
bad.  On an ET it can be fatal.

Also, keeping the inside of the control housing (dash) well oiled with
WD or Break Away, etc. may be the best mouse deterrent as I noticed I
have had no problems with well oiled machines. My 20 was very dry and
made a great mouse condo. No more! If you spray the wires and controls
make sure the oil is labeled for such use. Many now are including my
favorite "Break Away"

And WELCOME to David Hodges. You sound like another voice of experience.

Best of luck to Sal Lentino who managed to talk me out of a 185WH and a
145WH yesterday. I'm sure he will enjoy them for years.

Jim



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