RE: (ET) Tiller info

["Elie, Larry (L.D.)" <lelie ford com>]

Thanks.  I have NO large rocks so shields would not be a problem.  The 
soil is very light.  I do need to cultivate, so shields would let me get 
closer.  I had no idea about the 'aggresive/non-agressive' nature of the 
mount.  I thought it was all about clearance.

Now for another question for the masses; anyone suggest a 12V 
deep-discharge (marine or golf-cart) suitable for additional till time?  
I'm thinking (3) 12V. batteries in the 'weight-box' wired in parallel to 
the 36V pack for an extra hour of tilling.  The weight-box would go in 
front of course (you need weight from it or a mower to steer the tiller 
anyway).  Charge time would get longer of course.

Larry Elie


-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Rich [mailto:grich firstsolar com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 3:20 PM
To: ET Discussion List
Subject: (ET) Tiller info


Tiller info:

Note: I have the Wheel Horse version, but I believe that they are 
identical.

Shields:        I recall Bill Gunn mentioning that some shields were 
available (and
I believe that he may have some).  However, he recommended that at least 
the
side shields be left off, so that rocks encountered by the tiller could be
thrown out, rather than being recirculated within the tines and possibly
damaging them or the lower chain housing.  He said just make sure that
persons, pets. etc. are out of the area. (A good idea for mowing, also!) We
didn't discuss rear shields specifically, but as you say there are a bunch
of square holes along the back flange for mounting something there.

Tool bar:       The manual mentions that the two positions of the tool bar 
control
the "aggressiveness" of the tiller.  I believe that the upper position is
the more "aggressive" (manual's lingo, not mine).  I guess the thought is
that the angle of attack is steeper if the hinge point (i.e. tool bar) is
higher.  The manual recommends the upper position for tilling ground not
previously turned over, and the lower setting for tilling soil that has 
been
worked before.  Also, the best setting may be affected by soil type,
moisture content, etc.

Back spring:    This is used to set the tension on the drive belt.  As you
compress it, the first chain drive (i.e. the exposed one) rotates up and
puts tension on the drive belt going from the motor to the large sheave.  
To
properly adjust the tension, you're supposed to compress the spring to a
certain length (don't have the length in my head, though).  I think it's
something like 3 3/4", but I will check on this.

To adjust tension on the first chain drive, you loosen the two big
nuts/bolts on the side of it (3/4" bolts, maybe?) and adjust for proper
chain deflection.  I think it's 5/8" of deflection with something like 
10lbs
of force on the chain.  I will check this also.  To adjust tension on the
second chain (hidden in the lower housing), there's a allen-head screw on
the "front" (with respect to tractor travel direction) of the chain housing
which pushes on an internal tensioner.  On this one you're just supposed to
turn it in until you don't feel any slack when you try to rotate the tines
by hand.  Then the manual says either stake the threads or use Loctite.

Contrary to popular belief, the second chain drive doesn't operate in an 
oil
bath.  Just a few drops of oil in the oil cup are all that the manual calls
for, and this is only in the spring or after several heavy uses.

I hope this helps.  I will consult the manual and give better info soon.
Bill does have both the owner's manual and the maintenance manual with 
parts
diagrams and procedures, if you want to read the real thing.


Geoffrey Rich