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(ET) Re: E12M
- Subject: (ET) Re: E12M
- From: "Jim (Cape Cod USA)" <fiskfarm mediaone net>
- Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 19:18:19 -0400
- Organization: Suds & Service
- References: <2575327B6755D211A0E100805F9FF954041AA772@ndhmex02.ndhm.gsc.gte.com>
- Reply-to: fiskfarm mediaone net
- Sender: owner-elec-trak cosmos5 phy tufts edu
Hi Bob,
Glad to hear your E12M ran well.
Our 14 year old son just finished mowing the yard on our Wheelhorse 145.
He loves it. We don?t have to ask twice.
As to your brake problem: start by jacking up the rear and taking off
the left rear tire for easy access to the brake/disk mech.
Inspect the pads to see if there is any pad left. They start at about
1/4?+ and you can run them down as far as 1/16? but don?t take a chance
of damaging the disk.
Next you will want to sand the bulk of the rust off of the disk. After
making sure the tractor is solid on the jack stands I hold a course
sandpaper block against the disk while someone else turns on the
throttle so as to spin the disk (and the hub without the wheel so don?t
be leaning on it) First one side then the other. Be gentle and careful
doing this. The disk spins quite fast.
Next you have to take out the slack in the control rod. Remove the
return spring out of the way. Probably have to spray the clevis/rod
threads with Break-Away or equal. Remove cotter pin and clevis pin and
screw the clevis in until you have a good solid brake at about half
pedal but no drag. I spray the switch, peddle hinge, park lever, and
disk linkage with Break-Away. (Keep it off the disk and pads) ALSO some
systems require that the disk ?floats? on the shaft (unless the inner
pad can float).
There is a die cast brake that is different but I haven?t run into one
yet.
I think that?s about it. I haven?t done this in awhile. Two of mine need
it now. I use reverse as a brake a lot! Runs batteries down though.
Good luck, Jim
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