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RE: (ET) Transaxle Service - brake rotor assembly



Would your transmission manual show how the brake rotor hub is secured to the 2318 transmission shaft?  I need to change the rotor (surface significantly pitted), and it is on the inside of the hub, so the hub must be pulled.  While it is easy to remove the rotor from the hub, the hub itself is on there!  I have a good two jaw puller, but before I get crazy, is there a set screw that has vanished in the dirt and rust?  I'm assuming there is a woodruff key in there somewhere.
Thanks,
Pieter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-elec-trak cosmos5 phy tufts edu [mailto:owner-elec-trak cosmos5 phy tufts edu]On Behalf Of Monty McGraw
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 05:09 PM
To: elec-trak mailing list
Subject: Re: (ET) Transaxle Service

This is an interesting thread.  It got me reading the "Peerless Mechanic's Handbook
for the ElecTrak Garden Tractor" that was buried inside my Electrak Service Manual.
 
The 2300 series four-speed transaxle was the only Electrak transaxle that Peerless
"approved for use with ground-engaging equipment - such as plowing". 
 
The 1200,1400,1700 and 2000 series transaxles "should not be used to pull plows
or similar equipment which are pulled through the soil to overturn it.  Also, judicious
use is expected in any situation where a severe strain will be placed on the axles."
 
My Electrak service manual shows the following transmissions
 
E-8M      1216
E-10M    1216
E-12        2318 - although only one drive belt instead of the two on the E-15 and -20
E-15        2318
E-20        2318
 
 
 
The 2300 also had a Duo-Trak (trademark Illinois Toolworks) limited slip differential
(not a locked differential).  The manual says:
 
"It seems that some people are expecting this differential to perform as a "locked
differential" and the following information is given to clear up any confusion that may
be present.
 
The standard bevel gear differential is a torque balancing device in which the low
tractive and high tractive wheels deliver the same amount of torque.  Therefore, when
you experience low traction on one wheel the other wheel delivers exactly the same
traction.  The extreme example of this is when one wheel spins freely and the other
wheel does not move, or in other words, you do not have any traction to move the
vehicle.
 
The "Limited Slip Differential" is built in such a manner that an internal drag is
developed in the differential gears so that the driving torque is more uniformly
distributed between the two driving wheels.  This gives superior traction (at least
50% more) in marginal situations such as snow plowing, turning on the side of a hill,
hill climbing and operating on wet grass.
 
However, this feature cannot be demonstrated by jacking one wheel off the ground
or placing one wheel in an extremely slippery position.
 
To sum it up, the "Limited Slip Differential" will allow the operator to use his unit in
some situations where the unit with a standard differential cannot be used.  At the
same time there are certain extreme conditions in which the "Limited Slip Differential"
cannot be expected to provide traction.
 
It should be noted that the "Limited Slip Differential" retains the feature of allowing
the outside wheel to rotate faster than the inside wheel when making a turn.  This
is the main disadvantage of a "Locked Differential" which results in very difficult
steering."
 
I also found in this manual there is a troubleshooting section.  There was a post in
March about having trouble keeping an E20 transmission in gear.
 
The manual troubleshooting section titled "UNIT JUMPS OUT OF GEAR" shows:
 
Shifting lever improperly assembled in housing
    - Disassemble and determine if properly assembled
 
Teeth of gears are worn beyond tolerances
    - Check gears, replace worn gears
 
Spring in shifter fork weak or broken
    - Replace spring
 
Attaching screws for shift lever and housing assembly not properly torqued
    - Torque screws to 10 ft lbs
 
Shift lever bent and hitting unit frame
    - Replace shift lever
 
Shift rod grooves worn
    - Replace shift rods
 
Shift rod of improper length or grooving installed
    - Check rod length. Replace rod with correct part
 
Constant mesh gears improperly installed on counter shaft
    - Reposition gears
 
For others on the list, there is are a couple of paragraphs on testing the transmission:
 
"The absence of binding and oil leakage are the best indications that the unit
has been properly reassembled.  Though other, more elaborate, tests can be done,
this would be the perogative of the servicing agency, since the following checks are
considered adequate.
 
    With the shift forks in neutral, rotate both the axle ends in the same direction.  They
    should turn smoothly although a little effort may be necessary.  The brake shaft
    should rotate whenever the axles turn together, but in neutral, the input shaft
    should not turn.
 
    By moving any shifter gear into mesh, a greater drag should be felt on the axles
    and both the input and brakeshaft should turn.
 
    To ease in turning of the various shafts, insert a tool (such as a punch or a socket
    head screw key) into the keyway, however, do not force if the shaft is binding.
 
    Reason for unit binding:
        1. Reused or lack of gasket
        2. Oil seal retainers installed backward
        3. Mis-installed thrust washers
        4. Differential installed backward
        5. Mis-assembly of shifting parts
        6. Mis-placement of spacers
        7. Foreign matter blocking gear teeth mesh
        8. Shifter stop installed backwards
        9. Input shaft not completely in case
        10. Mis-alignment of case and cover.
              align with dowels before tightening cap screws