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(ET) y2k GE tractor
- Subject: (ET) y2k GE tractor
- From: russell239 juno com
- Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 21:35:15 -0500
- References: <OF03466C12.A4DFAA19-ON85256846.005BAB4C@private.softlanding.com>
- Sender: owner-elec-trak cosmos5 phy tufts edu
I have procured a E-16 in sort of sad shape and ordered new relays but it
still didn't work too good. Sort of slow and I felt not too reliable.
Well one reason it was slow is 30 volts just didnt power it almost. And
really sloppy controls from years of use.
So I needed a motor or something to load test my "On-Road" controller.
Heck I said. Just put in it the GE and use half throttle of pot box. I
used a bank of "toy" Gates gel cells at first to power a 1231 C Curtis
with mismatched MOSFETS in it. The gel cell pack is 120 volt packs and I
do have to say it hauled @ss. So I did some more experimentation and it
works on a Curtis 1221B too. Maybe it is dumb using a $1K controller to
power a antique tractor but heck it be almost 2001 a space oddessy? It
wasn't too long ago when most of us were using 8086 and 286 computers and
no one is using them now. So why would one want to use relay technology
if it is possible to power a shunt motor the way EVers do in On-Road
machines. In reality the GE doesnt draw much current so even a wheel
chair controller could power a GE Electric tractor.
There are a lot of kits for motor PWM units and I am experimenting with
them too. Right now even though it is freezing out , my E-16 filled with
gel cell and 1231 C is doing good enough to pull a sand trailer around
the Condo where I live. To charge the 120 volt battery pack I used a
modifed inverter but any regular one with a Bridge rectifier will work
too. I need the weigh so the rear battery box has 4 T-125 batteries
giving 12 volts to power light and inverter. I use a 12 to 24 volt DC-DC
to run field for the GE shunt motor. Since the motor field is 16 ohms
and requires 24 volts @ 2 amperes. Later on I have extra relays and
contactors and will do it up with safety features like turning off
armature when stepping on brakes. So no one will be able to burn out
brakes or motor armature.
It is so simple and I can strip out batteries and converters and replace
them in minutes now. I am making both battery boxes Heated with pipe
heat tape and plastic insulation. Repainted head lights to cover up
rust, placed new lenses made out of plexiglass,1/4". I even put on a
cruising equipment E-meter on it and a cigarette lighter too. It will
have temperature meter on both battery packs with a 500 amp shunt like I
will even come close to that!
If any one wants to see my almost ready for tractor pull E-16 I am right
on exit 28 of 495. I am never going back to 36 volts again with this
kind of power who would. And should be even more reliable too. The
Maintainance guy says he'd like to use it but wants a cup holder for his
coffee mug so that is next.
Now I can sleep in later while he fills the sand buckets in the morning.
One bad thing about most riding lawn mowers is that they need a better
muffler. Mine requires none at all. It is truely a Y2K tractor with
spare 120 vac and 120 volt DC.
I did design the battery box now for some 7 AH Yuasa Gel Cell batteries
to give me
more range but now it seems to do OK in the meantime on the 5 AH toy
120 volt S-10 Chevrolet, 132 volt E-16 GE
D. Russell Graves
P.O. Box 261, Maynard, MA, 01754-0261
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