Re: (ET) E12M now works!

["David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <roden ald net>]

From:                   Bruce E Conner <BConnor nefn com>

> Anybody have a good diagnostic method for the charger, apart from what's
> in the manual?  I'm replacing a badly swollen capacitor as the first 
> step,
> but the diodes may be shot too.  Can I test the charger when it's
> completely disconnected fromt he battery pack and sitting on my bench or
> do I need to have a load on it?

You can test diodes with an analog ohmmeter.  They should read fairly low 
resistance in one direction, just about infinity the other.  If you have 
a DVM, its voltage applied on the ohmmeter function will  often be too 
low to forward bias a diode.  In this case, use the voltmeter function 
and put the diode in series between the + terminal of a flashlight 
battery or 9v battery and the meter.  The meter should read nearly full 
voltage with the diode one way, nothing with the diode reversed.  Note -- 
make sure there is no power in or output load on the charger when you 
make this test!

For other testing, there should be no problem running the charger without 
a load.

> 
> I notice my new meter has an O-ring under it.  Doesn't really fit very
> well. Do I need it, or can/should I replace it with a thinner seal of 
> some
> sort? Also, the meter isn't the same shape as the old one exactly.  Did I
> perhaps get a wrong part or is the old style no longer available?  

These are golf car parts.  Yours may be an improved version; the O-ring 
is probably a weatherseal.  If you garage the ET, you probably don't need 
it.


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
1991 Solectria Force 144vac
1991 Ford Escort Green/EV 128vdc
1979 General Engines ElectroPed 24vdc
1974 Honda Civic EV 96vdc
1970 GE Elec-trak 36vdc