Re: (ET) transaxle issue

[John Jeno <jjjeno hotmail com>]

Awesome info and timing.  Thx Dean
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 16, 2026, at 10:49 AM, Dean Stuckmann via Elec-trak <elec-trak 
> cosmos phy tufts edu> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I’ve been using my E16 for more than 40 years and noticed that the 
> transaxle was getting noisy so I decided to tear it apart to see what 
> was going on. The numerous needle Bearings in the housing seemed good 
> but the ball bearing hiding behind the needle bearing of the input shaft 
> was bad. Easy enough to replace along with all the seals, but there was 
> a much bigger issue that showed itself during the disassembly.
>
> The bearings at the end of the axles were rough as well. Again easy to 
> replace but since the bearings are a slip fit on the axle shafts, the 
> inner race of those rough bearings would slip/spin occasionally on the 
> axle shaft. This caused a groove to be ground into the axles themselves. 
> So much so that the shaft diameter was about .015” smaller. Luckily I 
> had a spare transaxle laying around that I could swap shafts with so it 
> was not a real big issue for me in the end.
>
> I'm just posting this as a public service announcement. I suggest that 
> all of you take the time to remove the transaxle and slide off the 
> outboard axle housings to inspect, no, just replace the outboard 
> bearings. If you intend on using these tractors for a long time, it's a 
> relatively easy maintenance item. Well once you get the wheel hubs off 
> anyway…
>
> Some helpful info on removing hubs.
>
> - Some later tractors used a long 5/16" screw that had a square drive 
> with a jam nut. However, earlier tractors use the standard setscrew, (I 
> believe a 1/4”) that use a hex key. If it's the 1/4” hex, there may be 2 
> set screws stacked in the hole. The top one is a jam for the lower screw.
>
> - If a hub is really rusted on, don't use a two or three jaw puller. You 
> can end up busting the hub flange. Don't ask me how I know…  Some guys 
> have made a puller plate that attaches to the 5 bolt holes of the hub 
> but I still worry that could break a flange with excess pressure.
>
> - I’ve found that the safest and most effective way is to drill and tap 
> a pair of 3/8 holes in the hub face and create a puller cross bar that 
> you attach to the 3/8 holes with some grade 8 bolts. See pic of a rough 
> mockup.  I suggest a fine thread bolt in the center. Heat, penetrating 
> oil, and an impact are your friends here. If it’s real stubborn, I found 
> that using an air chisel with a blunt punch in it on the end of the 
> center bolt can help get things moving once pressure is applied.
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>
> Regards,
>
> Dean Stuckmann
> 5432 County Road U
> Newton, WI 53063-9624
>
> 920-901-2288
>
>
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