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Re: (ET) Plows suck for snow (dead blower)



Thanks! Yep it's a 42 inch wide one; motor on the left. ACE doesn't have it in stock around here but TSC does and I just ordered chain, spare links, and a small breaker. I could probably drill it out with my press, but I'm not playing around today.

Update: The breaker is out of stock. Looks like I may re-use the old chain for now with a new removable link, then grind down and knock out the links on the new one. Guess I will see how the drill press with a stake in it does....

Overall it looks like the usual class of pain in the tail job. The old chain did rattle around in there, maybe using that will give me enough slack to get it on. Really just has to last this next 2 weeks, in the spring I will be doing a full on overhaul of the bearings and whatnot.

Good point on using something to hold the auger. I'll also see if a kid can help too. :-)

C

On 1/26/26 08:27, Darryl McMahon wrote:
I'm familiar with the sounds you described.  I empathize with your situation.

There are a few models of front-mount snowthrowers for the ETs.  I have a collection of parts which are supposed to be complete units, and have learned over the years to keep the collections separate as they are not identical.  I gave a mostly complete one away summer of 2024 to a recent convert to the ETs who I met via an EV ambassador gig in 2023.

There is a 36" width model, but most I have seen are 40"-42" front opening.  Not much difference in weight.  Anyway, it's possible my experience won't directly translate to your unit.

So far, in the units which I have done drive chain work, they are all #40 industrial roller chain.  Here, I have Princess Auto for replacement stuff, and higher quality can be found at industrial bearing shops.  In the U.S. I expect hardware stores will have it (e.g. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/farm-and-ranch-supplies/farm-equipment-parts/70365).

If your chain broke, replace the whole chain.  It's about 50 years old, right?

If you haven't worked with roller chain, you will need a tool or two to make that a survivable experience, like a chain breaker, a quality adjustable pliers for setting the horseshoe securing clip on the coupler link, and a really fine set of needle nose pliers to deal with the micro-cotter pin that comes with the half-links.

In my experience, you can replace the chain without tearing down the whole thing.  However, it does try my patience, and I won't do it again outdoors in a snow storm.

Assuming a warm, dry work space, it's still fiddly work, where you will have to rotate the auger by hand to take the chain in and over the top of the auger sprocket to meet the chain end looped over the motor sprocket.  There is a gap where you can work on the chain, but it is very physically constrained.

You will want some wooden shim wedges to jam the auger in place, because it's really frustrating to have the auger roll and shed the almost-connected chain when you are at the side of the beast trying to put in the coupler link.

I found there isn't enough room to join the chain on the auger sprocket, as enticing as that looks.

You will want multiple coupler links and a couple of half-links unless you are much more finger-nimble than me, as the first couple of tentative approaches will likely fall out of fingers or pliers or however you are extending your reach.  I have found the final securing clip on the coupler link particularly frustrating.

I also found it handy to have a couple of sacrificial heavy wire coat hangers to fashion into custom length pickups.  If you get them bent just right, they can slip into the hold in a roller link to help fish the wayward end back into reach.

Put the extra effort into taking as much slack out of the chain as you can for the final connection.  It will stretch with use, and the chain noise increases as a result.  This is where the half-link may be especially useful.

I found that loosening the motor mounts to make the final chain connections, and then levering the motor with a pry bar while tightening those bolts again helped with tensioning the newly installed chain.

I hope this helps.

If there is solace to be had here, it's that once you have the chain properly in place and running correctly, it's probably good for another 50 years.

My next chore is figuring out why the lift motor went intermittent and stopped working.  The snowthrower is much less useful if locked at one altitude.  Not fuse or fuse holder - my usual suspects.  After the current deep-freeze, I'll get to the DPDT control switch - the toggle seems physically wobbly.

In the meantime, I have a corded Toro 1800, and it is pretty capable so long as I keep up with the accumulation.  The ET will still earn its keep widening the street all winter after the municipal plows lose 2 to 4 feet of road width with each snowfall.  The ET is overkill for the driveways I clear, but it shines at clearing the plow-droppings roadblocks at the bottom of neighbours' driveways.

Darryl

On 2026-01-25 12:59 p.m., Chris Zach via Elec-trak wrote:
So we have a foot plus of super wet super heavy snow. Had the blower hooked up, it started to do a great job then snap and the motor was spinning.

Broken chain. Great.

Question 1: Anywhere I can get a new chain or can chains be fixed?

Fortunately I had the dozer blade on the driveway, so I got that mounted up and....

Boy the dozer blade is mediocre at best for moving snow. Can't do it uphill, and it doesn't scrape down to the pavement like the blower. Wondering if I should just hook the dead blower back up and use it as a scraper.

Any thoughts on how best to move snow with the dozer blade? I've got the bottom of the driveway down to a thin later of snow. E20, 36 volt lift, lift is double looped, lift gets a *LOT* of use.

Always the worst time to have things happen.

Chris


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