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Re: (ET) Junker E15 sort of back in service
100 amps at 42 volts is 4.2 kW. Allowing for conversion losses and AC
80% of circuit rating practice (NEC 220-2), you're looking at over 5 kW
supply for that charger. That's getting into the range of a Level 2 EVSE.
So, not for a regular wall plug, but more like a range or electric
clothes dryer or central air conditioner circuit.
The OEM Elec-Trak battery boiler charger isn't my favourite for a bunch
of reasons, and keeping them operational is well down the list.
Are you charging lead-acid or NiCd in that tractor?
Darryl
On 2023-10-29 5:12 p.m., Chris Zach via Elec-trak wrote:
Well, after a fair amount of work, removing the clunker contactor (which
would not close), bypassing 2A to 1a to get me into speed3, and a final
push to fix the junk charger the E15 is operational-ish again.
Biggest challenge is the charger: It's just too much of a pain to try
and charge the 36 volt pack with a 12 volt smart charger (30a). It takes
all day, and is a real pain to hook up. So I needed a 36 volt charger.
Which really doesn't exist in the 30a range that the Elec-trak's charger
runs. Guess it's the way the world works, but even the Lester chargers
are only 20a. To be honest I need 100a or so to properly charge the E20,
might just have to build my own charger for this.
But in the meantime I still had that wrecked one I pulled out of the
E20: One of the diodes was bad and the whole thing is just an ugly mess.
So it sat by the woodpile all summer, I dragged it out of the weeds,
cleaned it up, and installed a really nice 4 diode plate from a 12 volt
150 amp manual Sears charger that died. They had wired 4 diodes into the
transformer, I'm guessing they were doing a parallel pair of 12 volt
center tapped windings to save wire or something. Regardless I put them
in parallel pairs of two and hooked them up to the charger core. The
center tap is negative, the lug on the diode heat sink is positive.
Wired it into the timer circuit, plugged it in (from a distance) and got
the 42 volt DC open circuit voltage. Put it in the E15, and now I have a
nice solid little charger. Will check the timer in an hour to make sure
it's moving/turns off the charge.
So. The E15 runs. Not well but it does run. Speaking of which if your
tractor is ever stuck you *can* make it go by jumpering the left side
control lug of the top left contactor (L) to +36 volts. Note that's the
little bolts on the front, not the big one on the side. That should get
the tractor moving, put it in speed 1 so you have field current, jumper
and drive it back to your work shed.
C
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Darryl McMahon
Freelance Project Manager (sustainable systems)
Do not mistake patience for weakness, nor action for strategy.
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