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Re: (ET) E15 moves after 10 years?

“Frozen brakes”
Any advice to unfreeze the pedal pivot shaft?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 22, 2023, at 2:10 PM, Chris Zach via Elec-trak <elec-trak cosmos 
> phy tufts edu> wrote:
>
> So my E15 burned down the BB600 pack of 30 cells about a decade ago and 
> pretty much sat in my yard. Cause of death was the timer not stopping 
> the charge (broke) and over a weekend the charger dried out the cells 
> then went into thermal runaway and fused the batteries.
>
> Last year I pulled out the old pack, put 30 spares into it, but it 
> wasn't running. And so I dragged it to a corner of the yard with the E20 
> and left it. This fall I decided to see if anything would work so I went 
> out this weekend and did a LOT of troubleshooting.
>
> The problems:
>
> The F3 fuse was not making contact. Cleaned up the fuse holder with a 
> brass brush, put fuse in, had power across the fuse.
>
> Brake switch is shot. Bypassed it with a wire nut for now. Brakes are 
> totally frozen anyway.
>
> With that I got power with key on to pins 1 with PTO off and 2 with PTO 
> on. Bonus, the PTO contactor clicked in, so I know seat switch 
> (bypassed) and key switch are working. Good.
>
> Checked pin 6, nothing. Put tractor in speed 1, still nothing. Start 
> switch connector fell off, removed throttle, cleaned everything, used a 
> bit of tuner cleaner for lube, put it together, motor spins! But badly.
>
> Tightened up armature bolts and CB1 lugs, tightened up the tension on 
> the two belts (yes this E15 has a 2 belt sheave and transmission. It's 
> smaller than an E20 motor so it's not a motor swap) fired it up and the 
> tractor moved forward. Even better putting it in reverse causes it to 
> move backwards.
>
> Can't steer, so got out the grease gun and lubed the steering joints. 
> Steers with great difficulty but it's getting better slowly.
>
> Still only running in speed 1 till I advance the throttle far forward 
> then field weakening comes on. I'm guessing 1a and 2a coils are not 
> working, may be a problem with the IC board. Need to check that out.
>
> One rear tire flat, filled it, will see if it holds. One front tire 
> good, one the sidewall dry rotted so need to replace that.
>
> Overall it's kind of a mess, but at least things seem to be sort of 
> working. Going to have to figure out why 1a/2a are down (is 4 to 10 
> closing? 11 to 13?) but I'll work on that next weekend.
>
> Need to think about what to do. I guess I could get  a diode assembly, 
> fix the wreck of a charger that came out of my E20 and put it in this 
> one. I would so much prefer a big 60 amp constant voltage charger though 
> to give 3 strings of NiCDs a proper charging...
>
> Poor old thing. I got it like 20 years ago from a guy who had it rotting 
> in the woods behind his house. Part of the frame had disintegrated at 
> the rear transmission lug so I welded angle iron and basically build a 
> new frame. It will never mount a rear accessory but the tow bar is 
> intact....
>
> Still, it continues to run and I don't have the heart to scrap it. :-)
>
>
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