A straight flute solid carbide drill bit will drill thru that pin and
broken drill but it will take a steady hand. The straight flutes keep it
from digging in too fast and snapping the tool. Something like this example…
https://www.amazon.com/Morse-Cutting-Tools-50768-Straight/dp/B00Q2RFRM6/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=solid+carbide+straight+flute+drill&qid=1575407354&sr=8-5
However, if the shaft is already junk from drilling from the end, you
may as well cut it off as you need new shaft and/or peddle anyway. I may
have one as long as i don’t have to go thru what you did to remove it :-)
Good Luck!
Regards,
Dean A. Stuckmann
5432 County Road U
Newton, WI 53063
On Dec 3, 2019, at 2:47 PM, Chris Zach <cz alembic crystel com
<mailto:cz alembic crystel com>> wrote:
So this little motor repair has turned into a sledgehammer-as-tool
spectacle. How did we get to this point? Well....
Put the motor together this morning after replacing the front bearing.
I figured why not? Took it out, mounted it on the tractor, and tested
it before hooking up the belts.
Nothing. Odd, I thought, but then I noticed a tiny hum. The motor is
now so silent it barely makes noise. Major improvement.
Put the belts on and tested. As I was putting the belts on I noticed
the pulley on the transmission was wobbling. Great, is it possible to
replace that bearing without pulling the transmission, or is that a
"it already wore out the bearing housing" problem?
Second and far more annoying issue: While I had the tractor on jacks I
tightened the adjusting bolt on the old style brakes and broke the
bolt. Annoyed I remembered I bought a Gunn brake upgrade kit back in
2001 and realized the E20-AA brake system almost got me killed last
year. So I dug it out, and started to put it on.
Oddly enough pulling the old disc was not impossible: Removed the
three bolts holding it to the hub, then used my puller to pull the hub
off the shaft. Majorly jammed on there, it took heat and the setting
maul to finally break it loose. But out it came, cleaned up the shaft
and woodruff key, and got the new disc on so it slides smoothly.
Then it was time to replace the brake pedal. A 5 minutes job, just tap
out the drift pin, pull out the old assembly, put the new one in, put
the pedal on, and you're good to go. Except....
The shear pin would not budge. Tapping it with my drifts just bent the
drifts. Tried drilling it out, but of course the bit broke in the pin
and now it's not going anywhere. Trying to shear the pin with a
sledgehammer and a 3/8 socket extention bar did not work either.
Apparently that pin is stronger than the rest of the tractor.
And finally trying to drill out the shaft with Milwaukee "junkium
coated" bits and the massive drill did not work either. So it looks
like I am stuck for awhile.
I guess I have to cut the whole brake pedal off with my cutting wheel,
and get a new pedal. Any other ideas?
It's been a rather frustrating day in Elec-trak land...
C
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