Ok, so I figured the motor was not going to fix itself and took it apart
today. Removed the huge front pulley with my 3 fingered pulley puller, then
pressed out the armature and set it next to the E15 armature.
Note: It's a bigger armature, no doubt.
I then unscrewed the field screws on the motor (hint: Find the *exact* size
screwdriver, clean the slots of all crud that might keep the screwdriver from
fully engaging, put penetrating oil in, and use a wrench on it while putting
pressure down with your shoulder. These heads could strip) and started
thinking about how to get the field wires out of the plastic housing (so I
could thread them into the motor and pull the windings out) when I figured I
should test the motor again with my sparker.
No spark at all, no ground fault. Hm.
Put the screws in on one field side: No ground fault. Did the other, ground
fault.
So it looks like the fault is between one of the field halves and the motor
body. If the screws were not ferrous that could fix the fault but I don't
know if nylon screws are made that big and if they would hold under the
motor's heat range. Debating if it's worth it to pull out the field, I could
wind up breaking more of the insulation and making it worse. I know that the
short is to the metal field support and not to the motor body because it will
spark on the inside of the motor on the side that's shorted.
I might be stuck here running with a ground faulted motor, or I could bypass
the whole compensating field and just run with the series one. Which would be
a better option?
_______________________________________________
Elec-trak mailing list
Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak