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Re: (ET) E-15 not getting out of first speed



Specific gravity test is overdue.  The battery mfg should have float voltage recommendations.  Rough area is 41v for 36v nominal pack.



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-------- Original message --------
From: john j casey <jjcrmc verizon net>
Date: 5/17/17 11:52 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: noaddress drmm net
Cc: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) E-15 not getting out of first speed

Would a specific gravity test be in order?
Cheers, jack

On May 17, 2017, at 1:03 AM, David Roden wrote:

> On 17 May 2017 at 0:35, Briggs, Michael wrote:
>
>> I'm wondering if I'm just not charging long enough. I'm using a Landis
>> charge controller.
>
> I would definitely try bypassing it.  That said, if it's been undercharging
> the battery for some months or years, the damage to the battery (hard or
> permanent sulfation) is probably long since done. 
>
> A sulfated battery will have a lower on-charge maximum voltage, lower
> operating voltage, and reduced capacity.  These phenomena aren't reversible
> in any meaningful way; the damage is permanent.
>
> I already suggested measuring your batteries' voltage under load (while
> driving the tractor and perhaps mowing).  I don't see any other way you can
> determine whether they can maintain enough voltage to run the tractor
> properly without connecting a voltmeter to them and reading it under load. 
> Sorry, but "they can hold a charge well enough to mow for a while" doesn't
> really tell us anything of value here.
>
> As for measuring their capacity, the easiest and cheapest (if approximate)
> way I've found requires a 12v inverter, preferably with a capacity of at
> least 1000 Watts; an AC powered analog clock with hands (check garage sales
> and thrift stores); and a 120v load of some kind.
>
> The ideal load will put a 75 amp load on the battery, because then you can
> compare the battery's actual measured capacity to its factory reserve
> capacity specification.  For a golf car battery, reserve capacity is
> normally stated in minutes of operation at a constant 75 amps until the
> battery falls to 5.25v under load.
>
> Most cheap inverters are around 70-85% efficient when running at around 2/3
> load.  Let's take 80% as a reasonable approximation.  If you have a really
> good inverter with higher efficiency, just plug that value into the math
> that follows.
>
> This is not lab equipment and the actual current and voltage will vary over
> the test, but remember, I said this is an approximation!  At an average of
> 12v, an average 75 amp avg load will be an average 900 watts from the
> battery.  Allow for 80% efficiency and you get 0.8 * 900 == 720 watts of AC
> load to put on the inverter output.  This can be approximated pretty well
> with three 250 Watt incandescent light bulbs. 
>
> If all you have at hand is a small (< 1000W) inverter, you can still do this
> measurement, but then you have to convert to amp-hours and adjust for
> Peukert capacity.  It's just a little more time and a little more math.
>
> Connect the inverter to a pair of charged 6v batteries in series.  Set the
> clock to 12:00:00 and plug it into the inverter, along with the lights. Let
> 'er rip.
>
> When the batteries are effectively flat (around 10.5 volts under load), your
> inverter should automatically shut down.  You may have to keep an eye on it,
> though, because some inverters will start up again when the battery voltage
> rises after a rest, throwing off the test.
>
> When the lights go off and the clock stops, read the hours and minutes of
> reserve capacity from the clock.  Assuming you used 750W of lights, convert
> to minutes and compare to the batteries' factory specification.  Typical
> golf car batteries' RCs are 105 to 125 minutes.  A battery is considered
> spent when its capacity is below 80% of specification.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
>
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