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Re: (ET) Elec-trak Digest, Vol 14, Issue 120
Last summer I completely dismantled and built two ET's. I was going to use
L/A batteries but I think, with the lower prices of Lithium batteries that
I'm going to with them. I've been toying with a different motor too, what
would be ideal is to do away with the shifter all together. Just some
thoughts your views are welcomed.
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: elec-trak-request cosmos phy tufts edu
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 5:22 PM
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Elec-trak Digest, Vol 14, Issue 120
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Today's Topics:
1. Stuff for sale in MA (Robert Troll)
2. mower motor questions (Charlie)
3. Re: mower motor questions (jlantonucci comcast net)
4. Re: mower motor questions (Charlie)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2016 16:01:51 +0000
From: Robert Troll <roberttroll hotmail com>
To: "elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu" <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Subject: (ET) Stuff for sale in MA
Message-ID:
<CY1PR16MB0396CF06EC7AD9028114FCFABADB0 CY1PR16MB0396 namprd16 prod outlook
com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
One large blower - new bearings.
ET (wheel horse) tiller
Mower deck (older style) with motors.
$100 each or best offer.
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2016 16:19:05 -0400
From: Charlie <medievalist gmail com>
To: Elec-Trak <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Subject: (ET) mower motor questions
Message-ID:
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I'm rebuilding a set of 3 tall skinny motors for a friend, and one of the
short fat ones for myself. I've been reading all the instructions and
whatnot in the list archives and it's all been very helpful.
I have the "top hats" removed, and the armatures out. I plan to order
brushes and new gaskets from Harold.
The stupid little skinny screws that held the caps on the tall (3.5" dia)
motors have sheared off in their holes. I'm thinking I will not bother
drilling and tapping them back out, instead I will replace the motor
through-bolts with stainless all-thread and extend them up into the caps,
in the same way that the fat (4.5" dia) motor caps are held on. Has anyone
else done this?
Everyone's recommending double rubber sealed bearings (2RS type) but those
don't turn as freely as the original metal shielded bearings. Since I need
all the "umph" I can get to mow my thick sedges and crabgrass, I hate the
idea of using power-stealing bearings. Has anyone tried using bearings
with rubber seals on only one side, and metal shields on the other (type
RSZ)?
I have two motors where the commutator end bearing is pretty securely stuck
in the brush holder assembly. Any tips on how to get them out?
Thanks!
--Charlie
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2016 20:26:56 GMT
From: jlantonucci comcast net <jlantonucci comcast net>
To: medievalist gmail com, elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) mower motor questions
Message-ID: <000f4242 0529e17e3dc48f62 comcast net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Bearing corrosion is by far the number one failure mode of these
motors - just saying...
------ Original message------From: CharlieDate: Mon, Oct 10, 2016 4:19 PMTo:
Elec-Trak;Subject:(ET) mower motor questions
I'm rebuilding a set of 3 tall skinny motors for a friend, and one of the
short fat ones for myself.? I've been reading all the instructions and
whatnot in the list archives and it's all been very helpful.
I have the "top hats" removed, and the armatures out.? I plan to order
brushes and new gaskets from Harold.
The stupid little skinny screws that held the caps on the tall (3.5" dia)
motors have sheared off in their holes.?? I'm thinking I will not bother
drilling and tapping them back out, instead I will replace the motor
through-bolts with stainless all-thread and extend them up into the caps, in
the same way that the fat (4.5" dia) motor caps are held on.? Has anyone
else done this?
Everyone's recommending double rubber sealed bearings (2RS type) but those
don't turn as freely as the original metal shielded bearings.? Since I need
all the "umph" I can get to mow my thick sedges and crabgrass, I hate the
idea of using power-stealing bearings.?? Has anyone tried using bearings
with rubber seals on only one side, and metal shields on the other (type
RSZ)?
I have two motors where the commutator end bearing is pretty securely stuck
in the brush holder assembly.? Any tips on how to get them out?
Thanks!
--Charlie
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2016 17:21:52 -0400
From: Charlie <medievalist gmail com>
To: Elec-Trak <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Subject: Re: (ET) mower motor questions
Message-ID:
<CAJb3uA7vgib=uq5+hvKm0+h6YBg-Dz_tqEThQP3yGkCHtRwmsQ mail gmail com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Understood, Jeff. But the bearings only need to be water and grease-tight
on the bottom, not on the top - on the top they only need shielding from
loose particulates. So if I can get RSZ bearings, I can put the rubber
seal on the bottom (which in the case of the fat motors gives me three
layers of rubber shield) and the shielded side up. So I'd get the benefits
of the rubber seal and only half the drawback.
I'm thinking about using a piece of heavy PVC drainpipe to get pull the
brush assembly off the tall skinny motors...
--Charlie
On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 4:26 PM, jlantonucci comcast net <
jlantonucci comcast net> wrote:
Bearing corrosion is by far the number one failure mode of these motors -
just saying...
------ Original message------
*From: *Charlie
*Date: *Mon, Oct 10, 2016 4:19 PM
*To: *Elec-Trak;
*Subject:*(ET) mower motor questions
I'm rebuilding a set of 3 tall skinny motors for a friend, and one of the
short fat ones for myself. I've been reading all the instructions and
whatnot in the list archives and it's all been very helpful.
I have the "top hats" removed, and the armatures out. I plan to order
brushes and new gaskets from Harold.
The stupid little skinny screws that held the caps on the tall (3.5" dia)
motors have sheared off in their holes. I'm thinking I will not bother
drilling and tapping them back out, instead I will replace the motor
through-bolts with stainless all-thread and extend them up into the caps,
in the same way that the fat (4.5" dia) motor caps are held on. Has
anyone
else done this?
Everyone's recommending double rubber sealed bearings (2RS type) but those
don't turn as freely as the original metal shielded bearings. Since I
need
all the "umph" I can get to mow my thick sedges and crabgrass, I hate the
idea of using power-stealing bearings. Has anyone tried using bearings
with rubber seals on only one side, and metal shields on the other (type
RSZ)?
I have two motors where the commutator end bearing is pretty securely
stuck in the brush holder assembly. Any tips on how to get them out?
Thanks!
--Charlie
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