[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: (ET) Found the E20 speed problem



If I get my gumption up enough I might do that at the meet. Replacing molex males is a real pain if I recall.

I'll fix the speed limiting control on card 4 first. After I fix the reversing light and see if I can swap the cruise control light (that never worked for some reason). But in the meantime the tractor feels a *lot* better. I think I was riding around there for a year or so with full power being FW1. Really explains why the tractor bogged on hills then sped down them. And I can now zip across flat ground without having to upshift to D1.

And I *really* need to install a heavier duty AMP connector on the back for the extra pack. The 30 amp ones are just way too small and get dirty too easily. Or wire in the front 30 cells and tie them into the power grid at the shunt and the disconnect, I could do that...

Chris


On 6/21/2015 5:50 PM, jlantonucci comcast net wrote:
Jim sells molex new connectors and the pins, Harold may as well.


T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.

------ Original message------

*From: *CZ

*Date: *Sun, Jun 21, 2015 2:37 PM

*To: *elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
<mailto:elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>;

*Subject:*(ET) Found the E20 speed problem

So spent the morning working on the tractor again. Speeds 1-5 are now working, but I still had 
speed 5 in reverse and all that. So I took apart the reverse switch to see what wasup.Ba  
<http://up.Ba>d news, I totally broke the reverse light bulb and housing. Will need to see 
if I can either make one with a red LED and a big resistor or buy a newone.To  
<http://one.To>ok out the reversing switch, sure enough all the wires were on correctly. 
However when I checked the wires as marked, they were 22 and 36. Odd since 36 is not where it is 
supposed to go on the schematic, it's supposed to go to 64 (the other side of the reverse 
diode).Great.Co  <http://Great.Co>ntinued looking and found something very interesting: 
FIrst the other side of the molex plug is labelled 64 where 36 goes in. Ok, that explains that. 
However what really impressed me was that 22 at the switch had an open circuit to 22 at the 
controlfuse.Su  <http://fuse.Su>re enough pulled the molex plug and the 22 pin was incin
erated. That's why reverse was acting weird, when the mice ate the wires and shorted things 
it got to ground though this molex plug to the reverse switch and blew up the pin.Great.Th  
<http://Great.Th>is however leads to the little problem that I don't have new molex 
pins. So what I did was connect the switch to 30 on the negative side of the accessory plug. 
THat is a 45 amp breaker, not a 15 amp fuse, so I put an inline fuse in place to protect the 
reversewires.Si  <http://wires.Si>nce the FW cutout problem is a different issue I 
moved the wires so the relay not coming in would not disable FW. Sure enough when I put 
things back together I see speeds 1-4 in reverse *only*, speeds 1-8 in forward, and although 
the CC relay stays in at speed 5, it drops out with speed6.CC  <http://6.CC>  does 
work in reverse, and does not drop out with speed 5 because the path through R5 is still 
enough to keep the contactor in. Just a difference between the guardian relays and the newer 
ones maybe. But
that's ok, things are workingbetter.Ne  <http://better.Ne>xt week I'll pull card 4 and test 
the transistors. I'm guessing one of them is open, which is keeping the relay from having a path 
to ground and closing. In the meantime I will be morecareful.An  <http://careful.An>d fix 
the light.C_______________________________________________Elec-trak mailing  listElec-trak cosmos 
phy.tufts.eduhtt  <mailto: listElec-trak cosmos 
phy.tufts.eduhtt>ps://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak  
<http://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak>