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Re: (ET) Nothing works!
It's the 30 amp fuse that blows, but the lift motor works fine. I checked each battery individually, but not in succession as you suggest. I'll be sure to check that next. The gauges on the dash do nothing; everything appears to be dead. The numbers on the side panel are (nearest I can tell) 26AF12C and P24121, but I'm not sure if these are the original panels or not, as they were screwed on, not riveted.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Jim Coate <jbc_lists_NO_REPLY coate org>
> Caution: late night ramblings as I should be in bed, but that said...
>
> By (sleepy) memory, the 30 amp fuse is for the lift; the control fuse
> and lights fuse are each 20 amps. Which fuse is it that blows?
>
> If you go through the battery pack with your meter, does each battery
> add ~6 volts to the total? ie keep the black meter lead on the most
> negative terminal (B5-) and move the red lead up one battery at a time
> and should see 6, 12, 18, 24, 30 and 36 volts (or a little higher if
> fully charged) as move from B5+ to B6+ to B4+ to B3+ to B1+ to B2+. And
> yes, GE numbered the batteries in the most confusing way possible.
> Diagram here:
> http://electrictractorstore.com/index.php?main_pa
ge=page&id=8&chapter=10
>
> I'd ask what the gauges on the dash do, but if the fuse blows, the meter
> may not do anything?
>
> As RJ said, knowing what model would help. If the GE tag went to the
> scrap yard along with the original rusty side panels, we'll have to get
> a few details to guess the model. First up would be the approximate
> diameter of the drive motor? (this determines if perm magnet model JA or
> sep-ex models CA-HA).
>
>
> paul mitchell2007 comcast net wrote:
> >
> > My E12 looks brand new: 4 new tires, rusted metal replaced, fresh paint,
> > and new decals. The only problem...it doesn't run!
> >
> > 1) When I engage the power disconnect, the 30A fuse blows.
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Coate, Spencertown, New York
>
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