[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: (ET) Trojan T-105
If you got troubles with automotive posts, it's likely because;
a) They are all dirty by now. Take the cables off give em a good wire
brushing and
reinstall. BE SURE that the nuts will tighten all the way on the
bolts, sometimes
the bolt threads get rusted or clogged with lead. Bolt n nut will
be tight but not
squeezing the clamp as tight as it should be. I have taps and
dies for these
and use the die to clean these threads (or get new bolts n nuts if
they are real
corroded up
b) The cables don't fit tight enough any more because the lead has
been squeezed
too much and the clamps are closed up at the open ends, won't
close any further.
Solution is to remove the bolt and put 2 blades side by side in
your hacksaw, and
with the cable end facing up in your vise, saw that closed up
space back open
again.
Both these problems seem to happen together. Don't do just the battery
post and clamp you're having trouble with, do all 12 of em. It wil be
years before you have another batt post problem.
It is a good thing to have a battery clamp expander tool. Sometimes you
can find a
'battery maint kit' at Harbor Freight or your local Chinese tool dealer.
WT (Wholesale Tool) usually has em. An expander comes with these kits.
Expand them, also make them round with this tool (just a little squeeze
not a lot) will make them also fit all the way down the post for a much
lower resistance contact.
NOTE that if you see a closed up gap, you must saw the squeezed up lead
outa there BEFORE using the expander tool to reshape the clamp.
After you're done and everything's tight and tested, coat the batt posts
and clamps with something. Vaseline is the old standby - have tried that
expensive 'battery terminal protective spray' and it's not real good.
Chassis grease ges away fast. Wheel bearing grease should be good as
it's thick n clingy but haven't tried it.
Don't tighten the bolts real heavy it will stretch the clamp again and
could crack it. Just tight enough that you can't wiggle the clamp on the
post then maybe a half turn more.
If the clamp is in such abused condition that the nut gets buried in the
lead when tightening, put a washer under the nut and retighten. Note that
these are not conventional nuts they have an 'inside' and an 'outside'.
The reduced and domed side goes towards the clamp.
Never think you can get away for long with replacement clamps. Most of
em don't last long, they corrode fast. Use the original lead ones by
preference. If repair clamps are on it already, clean em up the best you
can if you can.
It pays to once a year, see if any clamp nuts are a bit loose. Tighten
em. Lead creeps a bit and loosens them.
There are at present 74 post type clamps on various EV's at this
location, every one of em has been done as described above, most bout 3
yrs ago and I don't have clamp problems.
Do em now and you won't have em give you trouble while you're snowplowing
or blowing.
As to 7 yrs on a set of Exides. I fear you are right. You might try
equalizing them using a 6 volt charger. Only charge the lowest ones. If
it's an automatic shutoff charger, charge em all with it.
Dave
Weymouth MA
On Thu, 07 Dec 2006 18:17:39 -0500 John Casey <jjcrmc optonline net>
writes:
> I have Exide GC-5's , seven years old, 140 charge cycles, with
> automotive terminals...don't like these terminals; always feeling
> for hot posts and too often find one. The GE charger takes them to
> 43.7 v and measure at least 1.275 spg, if not more, on all cells.
> Still, this pack not holding charge like it used to. The end is
> near, I fear.
>
> My golf club, a good source, uses Trojan T105's with universal
> terminal connectors. In June '01 Don Barry posted to the list an
> informative piece about installing 105's w/universal connectors, an
> improvement, he thought, over the automotive type. Unable to reach
> Don about this. Anyone out there with similar experience??
> Thanks, Jack