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Re: (ET) Dan's 2/10A charger



Last time I looked at the price of springwould countdown timers they were
bout $25, and long interval or solid state, more.  That kind of money
would certainly be better invested in a Landis.   The plug in type is for
the rest of us (like Swamp Yankees) (that's the worst kind) (like myself)
who do stuff like this quick and dirty without a trip to the electrical
supply place.  Contacts on the air cond types are rated at 15A.  Tractor,
at start of charge and for a good while draws about 17.  In several yrs
of use and abuse by being outdoors in an 'acid fumes' environment have
never welded contacts on one.

Can't blame a 30+ yr old GE timer for going bad.  Especially in these
'enlightened modern days' of throwaway electronics, grounds maint
equipment, and even fullsize motor vehicles.

Dave
Weymouth MA


On Wed, 1 Nov 2006 21:50:31 -0600 "Mike Wallace" <metman glasgow-ky com>
writes:
> I sorta agree with Paul about just using the Landis controller.  I 
> have two 
> of the Landis units, but I also have a box full of old GE timers.  
> But if 
> you really want and/or need a timer, has anyone ever tried or 
> considered a 
> spring wound timer like those used to control whole house attic 
> ventilation 
> fans.  They mount in a standard electrical box and some run as long 
> as 12 
> hours.  They would make a cleaner installation than the "plug it in 
> the 
> wall" type timers.  And they don't need any elaborate wiring to 
> install 
> them.  I think the OEM timer in our ET's went a little longer than 
> 12 hours, 
> but...
> 
> Another thought might be to use a spring wound 12 hour timer 
> initially and 
> wire up a Landis to kick in after that and keep things "charged up".
> 
> And another thought would be to let the OEM timer control a solid 
> state 
> relay, like the one Harry uses on his controller, to actually turn 
> the 
> charger on and off.  15 amps or better going through those rather 
> flimsy 
> contacts is just not a good idea.  As long as the contacts haven't 
> actually 
> burned up and/or welded themselves together, the OEM timer can be 
> taken 
> apart and "worked on".
> 
> Mike in KY
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "PH" <pholzsc yahoo com>
> To: "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <etpost drmm net>; 
> <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 6:01 PM
> Subject: Re: (ET) Dan's 2/10A charger
> 
> 
> > Guys don't replace the timer, buy a Landis controller
> > and keep the ET charged all the time.
> > The Landis replaces the timer and monitors the pack
> > voltage to keep the pack at 100% charge using the ET
> > charger.
> > I have had a Landis for 4 years and I always stay
> > charged.
> > Thanks,
> > Paul Holzschuher
> > E15 and C185
> >
> > --- "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <etpost drmm net>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> On 1 Nov 2006 at 12:35, David C Robie wrote:
> >>
> >> > The 'air conditioner' chargers sold in hardware
> >> > stores and departments for less than ten bucks
> >> will handle any battery
> >> > charger we are apt to use - including a GE tractor
> >> charger - but it must be
> >> > remembered tht the timer repeats it's set 'on'
> >> time every 24 hours.
> >>
> >> I take it you mean "air conditioner TIMERS."
> >>
> >> I've used one of these by rewiring it so that when
> >> the switch turns off the load,
> >> it also shuts off power to the timer motor.
> >>
> >> I never thought to mangle the off trip.  I suppose
> >> it work equally well, and
> >> would probably be easier to do. However, if you
> >> break something off, that's
> >> most likely a permanent change.  Wiring changes are
> >> usually reversible.
> >>
> >>
> >>
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> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > 
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