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Re: (ET) It moves!
Great work!!
But don't count out that capacitor yet. My tractro's charger won't go above
40v until the pack is connected to it either. Once the pack is connected it
works fine.
I'm not sure of the physics behind a ferro0resonant charger but I suspect
it
requires a load on the secondaries in order for the tertiary coil to work
it's magic. A transformer is after all a current based device not voltage
based. So I suspect, no load = no current = no function properly.
BTW when running my sawmill, I keep the charger plugged in and my Landis
bypassed so that the charger runs constantly. I really need to put on an
ammeter to measure the real results but I routinely draw 125-150 amps total
for 3 or 4 minutes. How much of that do you suspect the charger is
contributing? I'm guessing probably around half since at that level the
batteries will immediately sag to I suspect about the point that the
charger
shares the load..... like I said I need an ammeter. I can tell you that
the
entire system gets very warm.
I also had a professional portable sawmill come in and do some logs for me
the other day. I gotta tell you,..... the ET's E-15 drive motor doesn't
come
anywehere near the power level of a 46hp diesel. ;-) But it was fun to
build it, and it comes in handy when I need to rip up to a 18ft long 2 by
(something to big for my table saw) and I can forget putting a 4 by or
bigger on the table saw. My ET mill, while not ready for prime time, serves
me well.
Man, I gotta get some pic's done......
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
GE I-5
Blossvale, NY
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
> [mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu] On Behalf Of Kelly
Williams
> Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 9:13 PM
> To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> Subject: (ET) It moves!
>
> Ha! The E12M that was pulled out of the woods - it's alive! Thanks go
> to
> Harold Zimmerman, who was sure it could be made to go, and elec-trak.org,
> keeper of those invaluable manuals and schematics, and this list, whose
> discussions, past and present, I've been studying like crazy. Pretty
> much
> everything I've run into has already been talked about, and conversations
> among people who are "doing" is help that you can never get
> from
a manual.
>
> First I got the charger cleaned up & going, then went over the
controller,
> then started working my way through the drive switches and relays. All
> relays click when they should and I can now drive back and forth on the
> power cord! I can't really say how the relays & switches will do
under full
> current, but it's very encouraging.
>
> And here's some empirical data on running on the charger. When I first
> brought it back to life, I was getting 42.5 volts, well within spec (40
> to
> 44v,
> p.1-25 of the General Information manual). I proceeded to run the motor
> quite a bit, hot-wired from the charger. (I plugged the charger into a
> Powerstat so I could bring the voltage up slowly). With the motor
running,
> I could use a file and sandpaper to grind rust off the motor drive
> sheave,
> then the transmission input sheave, then the brake disk. That all worked
> fine. But now, when checking the charger I get - surprise! - 39.5 volts.
> The same 39.5 volts that I hear people talking about when the capacitor
> is
> shot.
>
> So it seems clear that I ruined the capacitor by running the motor
(although
> the motor didn't seem to care). Now, I don't know how weak the capacitor
> was to start with, but I'm guessing that drawing this kind of current
> from
> the charger is pretty much asking for that kind of trouble.
>
> So I'll get the capacitor out of the parts tractor and see how it looks.
> And then it's on to the mower deck!
>
> By the way, I'm pleased with the simplicity of this machine. Nothing
> "sand-based" - just relays & switches. A multimeter &
some wrenches,
> penetrating oil & sandpaper was about all it needed. Oh, and a bunch
of
> time & patience. :-)
>
> Kelly Williams
> Mount Joy, PA
>
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