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Re: (ET) d'oh - did I hook something up wrong?



Plow blade;  I have a Wheelhorse 'easy attach' plow that has it's frame
attached to the rear axle and use double purchase on it gives a finer
adjustment for rocky back driveway.  Also, you guys eer try plowing
fallen leaves with it?  A lot faster than raking.

Dave
Weymouth MA



On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 21:05:16 +0930 "Shaun Clamp" <sclamp1 bigpond net au>
writes:
> Hi Guys - hope that this attachment from the GE manual will help - 
> Cheers 
> from Oz, Shaun. (E12 +++)
> (Offer it to the list if that will help)
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "David C Robie" <mycroftxx1 juno com>
> To: <msbriggs alberti unh edu>
> Cc: <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 1:26 PM
> Subject: Re: (ET) d'oh - did I hook something up wrong?
> 
> 
> > You are right about that lift strap position.  Some day will 
> change mine
> > to be more effective.  Suspect that it's that way so hammerheads 
> won't
> > raise the deck high enough to try to clear a hayfield with it, or 
> hurt
> > someone..
> >
> > I suspect that you didn't set the lift cable up right.  It should 
> be
> > 'double purchase' IE down to the deck, under the bar (which should 
> have a
> > roller on it) then back up to the lift with the end held up there 
> by the
> > bent rod through the 2 holes just behind the roller (which rod may 
> be
> > missing).  Double purchase puts less srain on the lift motor.
> >
> > At any rate it ain't meant to lift vertical  The trick is;  First 
> reove
> > the deck power cable (PTO cable)  Put the tractor in the lowest 
> 'creep'
> > gear.  Pull up the deck til the front part is high . Then by hand 
> push
> > the roller end to the ground.  At that point you let the winch out 
> while
> > holding the roller on the ground and . moving the tractor 
> backwards.
> > Then the deck will be vertical. You are best having 2 people do 
> this but
> > after a couple times you can do it alone.   While in there, scrape 
> the
> > deck clean. If you can't get a blades off, Sears has some 'worn 
> bolt
> > removers' that will take badly rounded bolts off.  Never sharpen a 
> blade
> > without balancing it.  Balancers are cheaper than bearings.  Also, 
> you
> > might need new friction clutch fiber washers these are a std 
> lawnmower
> > item.
> >
> > If you dont mind backstrain,  you can, with the lift cable unwound 
> a good
> > bit (yours is brken so you don't have to do that)  just set the 
> brake,
> > lift the front of the deck up and the roller end will swing 
> underneath
> > and then she'll be sittin bottom available.
> >
> > Replacement strap:  At the dollar and discount stores you will 
> find in
> > the pet department a long 1" wide dog strap that is usually black 
> and is
> > 2 straps sewn flat together, a doubled up strap.  It's about 
> $7.00.  The
> > big pet shops charge a lot more.
> >     This strap is too long so when wound on the winch the drum is
> > bigger, which reduces the effective lift power.  You can leave it 
> that
> > way it will work.  But it will work better if you cut a couple 
> feet off
> > if it and redo the loop using flat steel  bars and pop rivets.
> >     Inside the loop on the other end is held by a single staple 
> bent
> > over.  If you are careful getting this staple out you can reuse 
> it.  It
> > don't have to be stainless steel, regular steel rod from Ace Hdw 
> or Home
> > Depot can be used. (NOT coathanger ! )
> >
> > Have done 3 or 4 of these there's no real trick to it.  EXCEPT. 
> the
> > bumper and winch bolts are rusty use a real good breakfree liquid 
> first.
> > (NOT WD 40).  Replace the bolts ONLY with grade 5 or grade 8.  The 
> load
> > on that winch will shear regular (Chinese crap steel) new bolts
> >
> > Last time I checked Wheelhorse they wanted $60 plus ship for that 
> strap.
> > The doubled dog straps I put on appear as strong if not stronger 
> and
> > still there no sign of strain.  A single 1" strap of any make 
> (they all
> > come from China) will fray, wear out and be gone in a couple years 
> or
> > less.  This thing don't fray.
> >
> > Dave
> > Weymouth MA
> >
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 12 Jul 2006 19:16:12 -0400 (EDT) Michael S Briggs
> > <msbriggs alberti unh edu> writes:
> >>
> >>  I finally had time to finish putting most of my "new" E-15
> >> back
> >> together, after painting, and plopped the batteries in with my
> >> freshly
> >> made cables (4 gauge). For pictures, see
> >> http://einstein.unh.edu/~msbriggs/Elec-Trak/
> >> (the flash from the camera makes it look brighter blue than it
> >> really is)
> >>  Anyway - I haven't put the mower blades on yet, figuring I
> >> could
> >> use the lift to raise the deck up to give me easy access for 
> putting
> >> them
> >> on. So, once I got everything back together, I used the lift to
> >> start
> >> raising the deck up. After the U-bar hit the top of the deck, it
> >> *really*
> >> struggled. I heard a straining/tearing/cracking noise, so stopped
> >> for the
> >> moment to check everything out.
> >>  I'm wondering if I connected something wrong, as far as how
> >> the
> >> deck connects to the tractor. I had trouble getting the U-bar to 
> go
> >> all
> >> the way into the rails it slides into (had to bang on it with a
> >> sledgehammer to get it most of the way in), and I suspect that
> >> that's the
> >> problem.
> >>  I decided to give the lift another try, and again when the
> >> U-bar
> >> hit the top of the deck, heard a tearing noise again, and 
> eventually
> >> the
> >> lift strap snapped. D'oh.
> >>  How the lift strap connects to the mower deck doesn't seem
> >> all
> >> that well thought out to me, personally. I'd think it would make
> >> much more
> >> sense to have it connect closer to the front of the deck, to give
> >> better
> >> torque for lifting the front up for good access to the underside.
> >> Instead,
> >> it relies on a very small lever arm between the lift attachment
> >> point and
> >> the U-bar. Or am I missing something?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> -- 
> >>
> >> --------------------------------------------------------------
> >> Michael S. Briggs
> >> UNH Physics Department
> >> (603) 862-2828
> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
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> >>
> >
> >
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