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Re: (ET) Springs on the tiller

I think at this point the wires are fused together in there, thus pouring insulation in is not going to help. Un-winding the field and finding the problem could do it; the question is how does one take apart the field coil in one of those? Doesn't seem to be a screw, more a press-in fitting or something. Odd.
In the meantime I paid $25 on Ebay for a new 94 window motor. Will drill a hole in it, put a wire to the brushes for a common, and see how it works. If well I might start a business modifying these for everyone; we seem to burn out these motors. 

Chris


Chris Tromley wrote:

Lots of good suggestions for un-shorting Chris' motor.  Here's another that
might help.

If you're trying to get a fluid to fill really small spaces, you will
frequently be thwarted by the viscosity and/or surface tension of the 
fluid.
Too thick and it won't flow.  Sometimes a thick fluid will work if its
surface tension allows it to wet the surfaces it contacts, so it slowly
wicks into everywhere.  This might take more time than you have.

If the wetting ability of the fluid isn't so great, you can help matters
immensely by drawing a vacuum.  Air gaps turn into bubbles and fluid gets
forced into everywhere.  **DANGER**  Do not use a vacuum cleaner to draw a
vacuum if flammable vapors are involved!  A vacuum cleaner has a brushed
motor, which is a fine source of ignition.  (Can you say hand grenade?
Thought you could.)  Use a real vacuum pump.  Or maybe the inlet of a
compressor.

Chris Tromley
near Philadelphia  PA
USA

100% Gas-Free Yard Equipment:
* Avco New Idea EGT 150 electric tractor (equivalent to GE Elec Trak E15M)
  with mid-mount mower deck and snow blade
* B&D corded electric mower and string trimmer
* Patriot 1.5 hp electric chipper/shredder/vac
* Remington Garden Wizard corded electric tiller
* Craftsman corded electric snow thrower



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