I did look at the TI site and (the numbers on mine are mostly worn off)
it seems to be a PDLA-105, which is a105 amp breaker. Now I'm more
confused as I thought it was a pure thermal breaker, meant to open if
the motor overheats, but it seems to be a current limiter too (or
instead?). Anyone know?
-SteveS
Michael J DeLiso wrote:
>Steve,
>Sounds like two problems to me.
>Work the disconnect switch (DS) on the left side and watch the fuel
>gauage.
>When the DS makes connection the fuel gauge and lights should work.
>The motor Klixon by Texas Instruments Inc. probably died of exposure to
>the elements.
>It is only in the drive motor circuit in factory wiring jobs.
>I have seen them in RV stores as replacement parts. But I by-passed one
>of mine 8 years ago
>when I broke a bolt on the electrical connections. All depends on what
>you are comfortable with.
>The number on the red button is the amperage rating. Try to get the same
>amperage.
>Texas Instruments has more info on their web site.
>
>Mike D
>
>On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 09:57:05 -0400 SteveSwrites:
>
>
>>My E20 was dead when I went to use it the other day - like no-nothing
>>
>>dead. I have 36V lights so even lights didn't work. Turns out the
>>main
>>thermal breaker on the motor was open. I took it off and heard parts
>>
>>rattling around inside. No biggy - I took one out of one of my
>>junker
>>E12Ss and as I walked towards the E20 I shook the breaker - rattles!
>>
>>Man, do these things have a 30 year self destruct or something?
>>
>>I (of couse) took one apart and found the end of the adjustment bolt
>>was
>>broken off - not sure why. I'm tempted (of course) to fix it.
>>
>>So, anyone know what temperature it should cut out at?
>>
>>BTW, I don't get the wiring concept here. Why have the motor breaker
>>cut
>>power to everything? Sure made it hard to troubleshoot. 'Course for
>>some
>>reason I thought the main breaker was the one up on the battery side
>>
>>panel - that threw me for awhile.
>>
>>SteveS
>>E20
>>
>>
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>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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